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Post by bradblazer on Feb 13, 2009 23:28:14 GMT -5
Thanks guys, here are some more pics building the brackets. I welded some 1/4" pieces over the spots I wanted the pin holes to add some more bearing surface area. I stick welded them with 7018. I drilled the pin holes with the 1" bit in my HF 8-piece S&D set. For the pin keepers I forged the ends flat using a turbo torch and a hammer on a piece of 4x4x12 solid. You can just see the torch at the bottom of the pic. I stuck it through the holes in my bender and clamped it so it wouldn't fall out. Here is a closeup of a stabilizer foot cleat. I think it will grip okay. Good idea though to use those cutoffs if I need more grip. Some dirt is on them but here you might be able to see the grease zerks I added for the stabilixer pivots. Nothing fancy. Just cut a level spot in the weld and drilled through and tapped 1/4-28 for the zerks. There is no cross tube so the 1/2" thick plate is the bearing surface. I had to bore those holes to 1.25" to match the pins already in the appropriate spots on the BH. I used a hole saw and cleaned them up with a fly cutter. Sorry I didn't get a pic of that.
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red
CTW Advanced Member
Posts: 306
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Post by red on Feb 14, 2009 4:03:10 GMT -5
Brad- Nice work I still can't get over the size of your backhoe It' s huge! Any idea on the weight? -Ed
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Post by bradblazer on Feb 14, 2009 20:06:00 GMT -5
Thanks Ed,
Specs are pretty hard to come by since it has been out of production for some time but I have seen the weight listed as 1500lb several times. That sounds about right since my 3ph picks it up no problem (it does make the tires squat a little). It's spec'd at a 9.5' digging depth and that's about all I know. I have verified that the swing angle is 180 deg.
I do worry a little even trying it out with just my standard oem toplink. If that goes with me on the seat it could be a rough ride. The standard toplink for this model backhoe was a 2.5" solid bar that was rigid mounted to fix the height / prevent lifting. Mine didn't come with that part and regardless I don't want that stress on my 3ph box.
I think a billet top link is pretty much the minimum standard for 3ph backhoes. I pulled apart the top link on my Belarus by backing a dirt scoop into a little stump. Pulled the well-worn turnbuckle threads apart. I've also seen Rob's video of his hydraulic toplink breaking when he first got it.
Man. I've beat top links to death and all you did was ask the weight!
Brad
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3RRL
Administrator
Huge Kama
Posts: 2,027
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Post by 3RRL on Feb 15, 2009 10:42:36 GMT -5
Brad, Your progress is great. Soon you'll be digging a hole to China with that nice hoe. About your top link connection from what I've experienced, I would not use it alone. I would make the subframe so that it carries the entire hoe. Remember that my hydraulic box worked it's way loose after boxblading (and digging). That top link connection is not very strong and there is a gasket where you will never get a steel to steel connection thus there is always room for the bolts to work loose. With your large hoe, I'm sure there will be more stress than what mine exerts by a lot. Not only that, but the bolts are weak and soft and so is the casting. You can only tighten them up so far before stripping them out. I would hate to see you damage any of that in there. You could use the top link connection along with another connection though, as long as you don't use it as the primary source of stabilization. After seeing some of the Kubota frame mounts, I am convinced that is the way to go now. Rob-
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red
CTW Advanced Member
Posts: 306
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Post by red on Feb 15, 2009 18:12:57 GMT -5
Brad only 1500? My LG-6 is half the size of yours an is close to 1000lbs I understand your concern about the top link- are you sure you will even need it with that frame your building? If I remember correctly I think I've seen wear some manufacturer had two top links both going to the frame. Like a V shape Looked like a much stronger/stabler method. May that might be an option? Thanks for sharing -Ed
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Post by bradblazer on Feb 19, 2009 9:06:17 GMT -5
Sorry for the slow reply - I was just talking about using the stock top link while hauling the unit around and trying out the hydraulics before I finish the subframe, not actually digging.
Yeah Rob. I saw all of your posts about the Hyd. box working loose. I remember some tapped holes on the back vertical surface of trhe box - maybe we can bracket the box to the drawbar/hitch support assembly, not for the backhoe but to make it generally more robust.
Yeah Red, 1500. It's a pretty clean design and definitely not as heavy built as an industrial unit. The boom sections are tall and narrow using the same construction method as my loader arms - 1/4" plate bent into a "C" profile, bookmatched and welded together. It's a nice way to produce a tapered tube with a minimum amount of welding and machinery capital. All of those new curved boom units are likely cut, bent, and welded by robots. Brad
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