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Post by beaualex on Jan 2, 2011 18:21:42 GMT -5
Larry, I finally figured out the thread links and have all of yours and Rich's posts. I am especially grateful for the diode replacement info. I will probably be doing that mod asap. The site and you guys has been a god send for getting the most out of the Chicago 250 amp. I'll post some photos when I get started on my first project.
Thanks, Beau
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Post by beaualex on Jan 3, 2011 16:37:48 GMT -5
Larry,
What would you charge me to modify my wire drive wheels? I would pay postage both ways.
I can probably have the mod done here in Tucson, but since you know exactly what needs to be done, I thought I would ask you.
No problem if you can't, are too busy, etc.
Beau
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GuglioLS
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Post by GuglioLS on Jan 14, 2011 16:58:48 GMT -5
Hi Beau,
Sorry for the late reply. I trashed my knurling tool when knurling the drive wheel and have not replaced it yet. If you have a place in Tucson that will do it reasonably for you that would be good. If not I can order a new knurling tool and do it for you.
Larry
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Post by beaualex on Jan 14, 2011 21:02:40 GMT -5
Larry, I checked here and the going rate is $100, which is, of course too much. Don't go out and buy a new knurling tool just to do my drive wheels. I think I can set up my wood turning lathe to get the job done. If you would be buying a new knurling tool anyway, then that would be great. Also, you are without a doubt an E-Bay super sleuthl. I searched all over E-Bay and could not find the Full wave rectifier diodes in the 300 amp category. Do you still have the part number? I have all of the case off to install the secondary fan and thought I may as well do the diode upgrade while I have the unit open. You are quite the electrical engineer. The diode swap-out looks like it is fairly straight forward, but I could be missing something.
Keep up the terrific, excellent work.
Beau
Beau
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Post by beaualex on Jan 14, 2011 21:17:26 GMT -5
Hey Larry,
I just had a thought. I will gladly spring for the new knurling tool.
Beau
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GuglioLS
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Post by GuglioLS on Jan 16, 2011 0:47:26 GMT -5
Beau, Here's the link to the Diode's I purchased and installed in the MIG: CLICK HEREI installed two, one on each of the torrid transformers. The Full wave bridges from e-bay are three phase, so you will only use two of the three inputs. Also mount them to some sort of heat sink, like a chunk of copper or aluminum. I had a chunk of 1/4" thick silver plated copper flat bar from an old instrument I took apart. No pictures but I could post some when I get back. I'm heading to Anchorage Alaska early Sunday morning for 7 days. I'll have to take a look at my knurling tool when I get back. I think if you use a fine 3 corner file you could sharpen the groves by hand so it grabs the wire better. Thanks for your very generous offer on the tool, save your money for now. We can work it out when I get back if the file trick does not work. Larry
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Post by bradblazer on Jan 16, 2011 11:41:44 GMT -5
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Post by Rich Waugh on Jan 16, 2011 12:35:20 GMT -5
Anchorage in January - one day to set up the equipment and six days to thaw out again. ;D
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Post by beaualex on Jan 16, 2011 14:56:08 GMT -5
Thanks for all of the great info Larry and good luck and safe passage on you Anchorage trip.
Beau
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Post by beaualex on Jan 16, 2011 15:15:56 GMT -5
Larry,
I will try using a file on the drive wheels. I may also try my Dremel cutoff wheel. I think it is thin enough to work.
I suppose the drive wheels should be annealed before machining. I thought I read that they are hardened steel.
I am ordering the diodes today.
Beau
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Post by Rich Waugh on Jan 16, 2011 16:06:31 GMT -5
I would not recommend annealing those drive wheels. Odds are they're not hard enough to be a problem to file or machine and by annealing them you just make scale and risk distorting them.
Rich
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Post by beaualex on Jan 28, 2011 17:17:20 GMT -5
Larry, Hope your trip to to Alaska went well. I ended up using my Dremel cutoff wheel to grind the notches into the drive wheels. They look like they should do the job. Did you use a spacer behind the wire roll to keep it lined up with the wire drive? It looks like it may need one.
I have the new diodes and spoke with my neighbor who is a retired electrical engineer, but he did not sound too sure of how to connect them. If you only use two of the taps, does it matter what two you use? Since they are 120 degrees out of phase with each other in the 3 phase mode. Also, some pics would be great. Yes, I know you need to take the panels off to do so, but if you have some spare time, it would be much appreciated. Beau
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GuglioLS
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Post by GuglioLS on Feb 10, 2011 23:54:54 GMT -5
Beau,
Alaska was dark and cold -14 the entire time, that seems warm to what we got in New Mexico lately, last week it was 32 below at my place in Edgewood, New Mexico!!!!
The 3 phase full wave bridge - just use any two if the AC inputs, it does not matter which ones. I will try to get pics as soon as I can. I did not use a spacer for the wire wheel it seems to work just fine as is.
Larry
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Post by beaualex on Feb 11, 2011 21:46:18 GMT -5
Larry, WOW! I thought it was cold here in Tucson, but we did not get near -32. I have not tried out the notching of the drive wheels yet. How thick is the spacer you used? I can get a 1/4" X 2.5 copper bar from McMaster-Carr, which should work well as a heat sink. Thanks for the reply and the info. Beau
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GuglioLS
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Post by GuglioLS on Feb 12, 2011 11:33:23 GMT -5
On Feb 3rd @ 3:48 AM my digital clock thermometer says -29* F and my Analog thermometer says -32. Notice the indoor temp on the digital one? That's a 111*F difference from indoor to outdoor. For nearly 72 hours I feed the wood stove round the clock keeping it stoked to capacity. Luckily no pipes froze, my neighbor who was on vacation was not so lucky. Larry
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