Post by mariner on Feb 8, 2008 13:04:06 GMT -5
3rrl said:
Jim,Hold on to that broken part, you should not have to exchange it? Then you can weld it and keep it as a spare.
As far as welding rod goes, I think you are thinking of 6013 rod Jim, not 6011?
7018AC is 70,000 tensile strength and 6011 is 60,000 tensile strength, but 6011 has deeper penetration characteristics. That's what the 70XX or 60XX means in the numbers. They are both OP (out of position) rod, but I find 6011 is the best to use for OP welding.
That's what the XXX1 in the number means.
XXX1 is All position, XXX2 is for flat and horizontal and XXX3 is for flat welding.
The best way to use them is to run your root bead with 6011 and finish with 7018. You will have an outstandingly strong and good looking weld that way. 7018 is a low hydrogen rod and can produce x-ray quality welds if used correctly. It must be kept dry to work well.
With 6011 rod, you don't need to prep your weld area as much as you do with 7018AC. But it is a good idea to do so anyway. It is extremely important to prep and clean the welding area when using 7018. Run it hot too and the welds will come out nice.
I used to be a certified TIG (tungsten inert gas) welder for the mold making industry. I still have my old Miller 330A/BP that I use at home. I can TIG weld with it but also arc weld in either AC or DC with it.
It might be a little easier for begginers to weld in DC because of the current flow characteristic offered by DC welding (in one direction). It also offers lower welding amperages. However, at my property I only have a Lincoln 220AC welder that runs off a generator. I also have an really old Forney FS235 AC welder and use that at home too. So I have lots of welders. (Also gas torches, of course). I just bought an AC/DC Diesel welder/generator from China but have not taken it out of the box yet. I will try it out at the property for when I want to weld in DC.
Just thought I'd share some of that stuff in case it might help somebody.
Even though I've burned a few rods in my day, I am no expert by any means.
So stick with what works best for you... what you are comfortable with and gets you the best results.
You can do a web search and get a lot of information on welding rods and how to weld.
Rob-
Hi Rob,
Thx for the info. As I said, the main reason I have done nothing with the broken part is the possibility that the old part may be needed to get the warranty replacement - don't know for sure.
Also, I don't see the sense of trying to repair a questionable cast piece that is known to be failure prone. The risk of serious damage should it fail at the wrong time, is just too severe. It is something I will never know for sure. Welding something else is not a problem, but that item needs serious considerations and I myself don't think it would be worth the bother. If I had no other choice - sure.
Boy you guys are getting a great response with all these new members joining up. You must all be doing something right eh!
Later
mariner
