Foton Tie Down points - Transporting

[rayh]

This looks like the same tractor I am currently working on. It is named "McGregor 304". Looks same as yours. JD395 Engine. I will post some photos tomorrow

[GuglioLS]

Hi Roy,
I see you figured out the picture thing.
OMG that tractor looks like a train wreck. I see your wasting no time taking it apart to fix er up. Hopefully you'll get the engine running, but if it's seized up I think your looking at a complete overhaul similar to if not more than the rebuild Rob is in the process of. Hope it was virtually free. I look forward to your progress.

Good luck,

Larry

[3RRL]

Roy,
It's not a lost cause!
Just jump right in like you're doing and get every component cleaned and lubed. I'm going through an engine rebuild and consequently am checking, cleaning and lubing every component I take off. I'm sure you'll get it running in no time.
Rob-

[psj12]

I have broken free siezed engines and had them run fine for a long time. However if the liners are heavily pitted that may not work.

[roy697]

Hi All
I put some more Evapo-Rust into each cylinder today, still not moving anymore. My friend Nick wants to pull the head. Wednesday there calling for a warmup. Plan to put torpedo heaters on it to get the water, ICE, out of the rear end. Also pull the pump off just in case that is what is stopping the thing from turning over. Nick has rebuilt Diesel engines for 30 years & thinks nothing of doing it. Nice to have a friend that is like a kid in a candy store. He said there are 2 types of sleeved engine, wet & dry. Looking in the parts book that came with it shows Water Sealing Ring around the bottom of a sleeve, so I would guess it is wet. (Does that make sense?)

[roy697]

Well good, no Great news, the engine is free to turn. Broke free today, a little bump in each direction about 5 times & that was it. I put some more evapo-rust in each cylinder & worked it on & off over a 3 hour period. Seems to be free & smooth to turn. Torpedo heater for about 1 hour & then put diesel in the gear box. After 7+ gal it started leaking around the drive shaft I guess that is were the oil went that was in the gear box. Drained the diesel out. Done for the night.

[roy697]

Well the drive shaft is out & the seal on the transmission side was bad allowing oil & in my case water to leak into the drive shaft housing. Two of the o-rings were missing that keep dirt & water out. I am guessing that is where the 26 liters of oil went, very slow of course. (not good) cleaned the shaft & splines, will pickup the new o-rings & seal in the morning. Local bearing place had them but not on the shelf.

[roy697]

Now that the easy stuff is done on to the engine. I have 2 broken lines, fuel tank & fuel injector return. Looking for some place that I can buy the Banjo fittings ( Need some help here ). If I cannot find the fittings I will attempt to drill out & braze something into them, do a repair maybe. This is something that I have never attempted, if one of you have tried to repair a banjo fitting please tell me how you did it before I destroy these. ( Help )

[affordable]

We have all the new fuel hoses ?, hydraulic parts,seals ? instrument panel, headlight assembly, lot's of parts for that tractor,let me know if we can help you

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co.
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
www.affordabletractorsalesco.com

[GuglioLS]

Jan 14, 2010 19:15:18 GMT -5 roy697 said:

....snip.......snip....... if one of you have tried to repair a banjo fitting please tell me how you did it before I destroy these. ( Help )

Hi Roy,

I have repaired many a banjo fitting by cutting off the crimp collar using a 3" air operated metal cut off wheel from harbor freight. After the crimp collar is removed, pull off the hose and it will expose a barb fitting. Go to a local auto supply center and pick up some good quality fuel hose and small hose clamps. Don't use poly hose like I did because poly hose hardens and becomes brittle with time with diesel fuel running through them. (I had to re-do them after I found the hose I used had become hard and brittle) The fuel hose I used the second time around was lined fuel injector hose for a car, a year later it is holding up like new.

CLICK HERE for a link that show the whole process.

Larry

[GuglioLS]

OOPS

Now I see one of the barbs has already broken off, perhaps it best to get a new hose from Tommy.
I would still remove and replace the Chinese rubber with good quality fuel hose though.

Larry

[Rich Waugh]

You can get a brass plumbing fitting with the right sized barb, cut it off and silver solder it onto the banjo. YOu have to have a very good fit, scrupulously clean metal and use jeweler's silver solder and flux. Forget the stuff from the plumbing supply, that's ow-temp stuff and has little strength.

Or just buy new banjo fittings from Tommy.

Rich

[mgrove]

HI
Tractor King is sold by Rural King, Some of the cosmetic parts may be only available thru them. You can google Rural King and get the web address. I thought about a Foton 404, but they didn't have a shuttle shift, and with a loader, I wanted a shuttle shift. Good luck and have fun.
Max

[roy697]

Well I called Tommy & he was not available but one of his people were. Not able to get the banjo fittings to repair my stuff BUT they had the whole assembly, used but it was cheap enough to have him ship it. They also had a book on the tractor that I need. Their prices seem very reasonable. Taught me how to measure the size of the banjo fittings also. Went to the local bearing place & picked up the 2 drive shaft seals & a package of o-rings for the housing, will install tomorrow. Thanks every body.

Now about the silver solder. I have silver soldered some larger stuff years ago on the job but not anything of this nature. If you have done this before how about some pointers. I know I have to clamp it without damaging it. Would the brass hold up to the vibration of the engine? More input from the guys that have done this kind of stuff. I am new to owning a diesel of any kind, new land owner as of last June. I have a lot to learn & these message boards are great. Just one last note, the drive shaft has 2 spline couplings, one on each end with a roll pin that makes it easy to work with, I saw some other thread that I guy had stripped one of the ends but his had ball bearings & not the spline like I have. Must be lots of little differences among these tractors. Once I get to the point that I know I can make this thing work I will be looking for stuff like Driver side fender, fiberglass dash, steering wheel, & on & on......
Thanks again every one.

[roy697]

Hi mgrove
There is not Tractor King, Rural King around my area but the internet closes that gap. I will have to google it tomorrow & see what may be available through them. The fiberglass dash was smashed into pieces but the cluster stuff was not, the bezel around it has damage but looks like other than getting wet I expect it to work even if I have to bend up some sheet metal & make something.