Relocated Exhaust

[Ronmar]

I got tired of wacking my vertical exhaust on the tractor when working in the trees, so I relocated it.







Ron

[3RRL]

Very clever relocation Ron. It looks pretty sano like that.
One question, aren't you afraid of setting tall dead grass on fire? At my property, I couldn't have my exhaust like that. I'd have a forest fire in 10 seconds.
Curious ... I can see why you have it pointed down since it's in front now, but curious as to why you didn't route it to the rear and up behind or to the side of the tractor?
Rob-

[Ronmar]

Thanks Rob
Around here, I am more worried about drying the mud out than setting grass on fire:) Maybe it will help me control/cook the moss... Can you start grass on fire with a diesel exhaust? I wouldn't think it hot enough, but I have never measured it under full load. The diesel gen runs around 650F right at the manifold under full load, but it is a slow speed. I will have to load up the tractor engine and check the temp now that you mentioned it.

Many of the newer tractors with the muffler right off the manifold and containd inside the engine cowling, discharge down low. I was just looking at a New Holland a few weeks ago at a dealer that just opened up the road. The NH30 I was looking at had a pretty low exhaust outlet. For that matter, the whole muffler and exhaust outlet on my 27HP sears garden tractor is way lower than this one. Those are routinely drug thru the grass under load at full throttle. I would think the gasser has a hotter exhaust than the diesel.

As for direction, the angled strut that connects the FEL tower to the front of the tractor on my FEL is in the way to run it straight down. If you look carefully in the first pic, just to the left of the muffler(left of the upper white zip-tie), I added a bolt on support to the exhaust pipe. At that point the exhaust pipe is directly over the FEL strut. I also didn't want to run it down across the starter. As it is, I can still reach all the engine parts for maintenance or repair without having to remove the exhaust manifold. The outlet end of the pipe is also attached to the frame with a bracket. 4 bolts and it is off.

Ron

[GuglioLS]

Yea Ron, it does look like a nice clean job, did you do the handy work? Just like Robs place, here in New Mexico something like that would cause an instant wild fire. I've seen quite a few guys cut and re-route their exhaust due to them bending or breaking them clean off, like yours, most of them came out looking pretty darn good.

I just saw on TBN where a guy busted his off the very first day he brought his new tractor home and tried to drive it into the garage, What's with that? is he blind or something? I sometimes wonder why so many guys are busting off their exhaust stacks, some on the first day of ownership. Oh well, I suppose some people have no business owning a tractor I guess.

Anyway nice job,

Larry

[Ronmar]

I took some exhaust temp readings under load yesterday and got near 650F up by the manifold and around 400F at the exhaust pipe outlet. I did notice today, that the spot where I did the extended run/test is now discolored and yellow though, so perhaps straight down was not the best idea even up here where it is usually pretty wet

I think I will add a chamber/difuser to the end of the pipe down in front of the lower frame/battery box that will direct the exhaust gas left and right. It is much quieter from the drivers seat now, and that will probably make it more so.

I need to run the gas mower tomorrow, so I will check the temp on that also. I am thinking it will be hotter, and it discharges about 10-12" above ground down in front.

Ron

[Ronmar]

I just looked at a JD and 2 different Kubotas and all three of those send the final outlet exhaust down in front of the front axle at about a 45 degree angle. I can add a difuser to the end of mine pretty easy, so I am going to do that.

Ron

[quikduk]

Ron:

Keep it simple. Most of the "other brands" that have this configuration just cut the end at an angle so the exhaust is directed at/near the front wheel/tire.

[red]

Ron-

I like your modification to your exhaust! I had serious 2nd thoughts or "buyers remorse" after got my 284 because I didn't opt for the down under exhaust. I was glad I didn't have the under tractor exhaust when I got stuck (up to the axles both front and back) when back filling the hole for a pool with wet clay. Thought I would need about 80-100 yds ended up with over 200. Getting better though the first day I got stuck 3x. Twice I got out on my own the third time had to use the dump to pull me out. Only got stuck once after the first day!

Is there any chance that the exhaust gases will get sucked into the air filter intake? And if it did would it matter? -Ed

[Ronmar]

Apr 28, 2008 4:54:38 GMT -5 red said:

Ron-

I like your modification to your exhaust!

Is there any chance that the exhaust gases will get sucked into the air filter intake? And if it did would it matter? -Ed

Thanks
I suppose some might find it's way back toward the intake, but since I am blowing it down and away anyway not much more than from the stock exhaust when you drive thru a downdraft I think:) Certainly not enough to make any differance.

I relocated my air intake a few years back, and my airfilter is back over the injector pump, along with the espansion tank I added for the radiator. I did this to make it easier to access the radiator screen and to provide no obstructions to the radiator inlet, as well as to keep the radiator topped off with expansion and contraction. That change is detailed over on Johns Jinma site. johnstractor.homestead.com/AirfilterCoolantRec.html

Had mine stuck pretty good year before last, buried to the top of the axles in a mudhole. Couldn't climb back up the bank onto solid ground because of the weight of the brushhog. Had a heck of a time getting the BH off and drug out of the way. Hooked a chain thru a rear wheel and back to a tree and used the rear wheel like a winch capstan and the tire crawled right back up the chain and out of the hole(another good reason to have a creeper gear). Lot of cussing and sweating over that one...
Ron

[3RRL]

Ron,
You are such a nice guy, somehow I can't picture you sweating. ;D
Rob-

BTW, earlier this year I managed to bury my new truck to the axles. Went to get it out with Huge Kama and buried it too. The entire rear end was a foot below ground level up past the PTO shaft. One rear wheel was even deeper, up to the top of the rim of those big 12.4 x 28 tires.

[red]

Ron,
You are such a nice guy, somehow I can't picture you sweating. ;D
Rob-

Couldn't figure out what was wrong with Ron's post -Rob nailed it! ;D ;D

Amazingly I didn't get upset when I got stuck the clay was worst then concrete and ya could here the hydraulics pitching a bitch moving all that mud. Just learnt that when you're in mud two extra spins on ya rear wheels had you're axle deep. Completely forgot about using your wheel as a winch. How did you attach the chain/or cable to the wheel? -Ed

[Ronmar]

Apr 28, 2008 18:41:08 GMT -5 red said:

Ron,
You are such a nice guy, somehow I can't picture you sweating. ;D
Rob-

Couldn't figure out what was wrong with Ron's post -Rob nailed it! ;D ;D

Amazingly I didn't get upset when I got stuck the clay was worst then concrete and ya could here the hydraulics pitching a bitch moving all that mud. Just learnt that when you're in mud two extra spins on ya rear wheels had you're axle deep. Completely forgot about using your wheel as a winch. How did you attach the chain/or cable to the wheel? -Ed

You can't picture me sweating, but you can picture me cussing?

The inner disc of the Jinma rear wheels is not round. It has flat spots on the disc that leaves gaps large enough between inner disc and outer rim to pass a chain thru. I would avoid putting it thru where the valve stem is located if actually rigging this.


This is an Old 4X4 trick... Once the chain is thru and hooked to itself, the free end is run back to an anchor point. You put it in low low range, and engage the rear difflock and back out slowly.


Since the pull force is not directly in line with the tractor CG, it can cause the tractor front end to slew in the direction of the tire the chain is connected to, so sometimes you have to alternate wheels. It is also not very tollerant of misalignment and the chain will slip off the tire tread. So sometimes you need you rig a dual anchor(Y) to get the wheel chain directly in line with the rim, or rig a chain to both rear wheels. Once it is out and the mud all pressure washed off, you hit the rims with a rattle can of white, and Bobs your uncle...

When I had it buried, I was really glad I had my fork bucket on. It's 30" tines pointing straight down into the muck, I could barely reach solid ground to push on with the FEL. I of course had to manhandle the 5' brushhog out of the way in the brush and up a slope to allow me to rig the chains. Yes, there was a considerable ammount of sweat involved:)

Ron

[3RRL]

Ron, I see I put a smile on your face.
Your tire chain trick is a good one to remember. I've thought of attaching a 4 x 4 to the wheel like that, but have never really done it. I like your method better.

You probably read my thread when I made the hydraulic winch attachment for my tractor. It was primarily for pulling shrubs I couldn't get to on a hillside. I realized I could use it on the front or rear to get me out of stuck situations, except when it was under the ground such as in deep mud like that.

After reading your post, I was thinking if a guy came up with attachable bolt on steel wheel rim that sits outside the rear rim a few inches for winching purpose like your tire, I'll bet you could sell a few of them. You could hook a chain or cable to slots in it and winch yourself out of anywhere. The chain or cable would wrap around the skinny rim, fitting inside a "V" shape. Heck, you could make it with a retractable cable and pull it out when needed...one for each side.
Hmmm....

[red]

You can't picture me sweating, but you can picture me cussing?

Ron[/quote]

Ron, I'm sorry I thought you were in the USCG? My dad (Navy) always used the expression "cursing like a sailor" Also remember a post where a "Ron" was trashing his son's junk (ie a TV) that looked like some cussing was involved! ;D ;D ;D

Thanks for the wheel winch tip I now understand how it works and I also forgot about your mods (air intake/ overflow tank) over at John's site until you mention them. -Ed

[Ronmar]

Rob
A tractor with a locking rear diff is a natural for this. The bolt on rim is a good idea for ease of use, but the ratio is missmatched to the tire speed. IE, the tires would want to move across the ground faster than the cable or chain from the smaller attached drum could pull. This means wheel spin. The cable or chain from the rim would pull, but the tires are going to chew ruts getting there. By rulling off the tire face, there is no wheel spin. With the diff locked, both tires just roll back along the ground(one along the tensioned chain) untill solid ground is reached. This helps the tractor to crawl back up onto solid or dry ground.

I was thinking about paddles for he next time also, but instead of a single 4X4 across both wheels as I have seen done, making chain on paddles a foot or so across to attach to each rear wheel like I do with the pull chain. As they get around to the front, you disconnect and re-connect them to the rear of the wheel. I will try that if I ever get it buried again, but I am trying to avoid that...

Ed, I am in the USCG, but it is my wife who really cusses like a sailor:) As for the TV, no cussing involved, just a little gunfire and tractor time(nothing to cuss about there)...

Ron