Hydraulic T&T - Part Deux

[quikduk]

Tim (tuffytractor) and I were "racing each other" to complete these mods a while back. Well, not really racing but we did bounce a LOT of ideas off each other, as well as Rob, Larry and a host of other members.

Here is a link to Tim's post:

Tim’s T&T Project

[quikduk]

I started by taking off the Chinese FEL QD’s and replace them with a set of couplers since I didn’t want QD’s down where they could come off accidentally and the connections were going to be permanent. After this, I fabricated the new 3-spool valve bracket out of some 1/4” plate and 3/8” flat bar. It bolts through the side of the fender with a grade 8 bolt and spacer since the steel reinforced fiberglass fender has a hollow spot in it, has a piece of reinforced HD rubber between the inner fender and the bracket and suspends the valve over the fiberglass fender. The bottom two holes share the right fenders forward ROPS bolts.

[quikduk]

Here is the valve mounted on the freshly painted bracket.

[quikduk]

I then decided to mount my cylinders BUT I had to press in the bushings that Tim got for me (Thanks again Tim!). I had to use my bench vise and some combination of bars and bushings (sockets) to press them in. The clevises weren’t true so they tended to go in a little crooked which made me have to use a 4’ cheater on the vise handle to force straighten them. It took about 2 hours to get 8 bushings in and my arms, hands and chest were very sore. (Note to self: get 40 ton HF shop press when on sale!). I mounted the side-link cylinders and the top link cylinder and determined that the lower side link clevises didn’t have the clearance to move the links to either of the outer two holes in the lower lift arms due to binding so they ended up where the original turnbuckles were mounted. I also had to disassemble the side link cylinders in order to rotate both the top and bottom ports to the rear rather than to the side. This gave more flexibility to the hose routing.



I then had to mount and plumb the valve, as well as determine where the OUT to tank return hose would connect. As you can see in the middle of the prior picture, I connected it into the half-remote return to tank hard line. These were originally designed for a hyd. dump trailer but you had to divert the hydraulic flow from the FEL to these remotes. I didn’t want to mess with that and I won’t be taking the FEL off any time soon.

[quikduk]

Here is the finished installation. The right hose in the last picture is the high pressure (HP) OUT from the Power Beyond (PB) port sleeve that powers the FEL valve with full hydraulic pressure. The left hose that has the gauge on it is obviously the HP-IN from the pump.

[quikduk]

Here is the post-installation/operation report.

1. I ended up switching the lines around (in pairs but tall to short, short to tall) so that when I pushed the levers away from myself, the cylinders extended out. I thought I did it right the first time but I didn't...and I already had the system filled so I made a bit of a mess. The top port on a cylinder (fixed port) is responsible for extending the cylinder which equates to the (most) valves “B” port. I guess I should have double checked the valve diagram.

2. After I switched the lines at the valves, I liked the operation better so the trouble and mess was worth it...I think. I may still have to mess with the lines and after I added two inches to Tim's dimensions, it turns out I should have added about 6 more inches...but they don't bind and aren't "stretched" so I think they will be o.k.

3. I found out that I do need to tack-weld the spacers in the top link cylinder since they want to fall out every time I have to remove the cylinder to change implements.

4. I set up the SV three-spool valve in the following order.

a. The first lever/valve is the float for the top link.

b. The second lever/valve is for the right side link (even though it is the "left lever" to the right of the top link lever). I did this since I am usually looking sort of backwards when I am operating an implement.

c. The third lever/valve is for the left side link.

I used it while digging post holes, box blading and brush hogging. All I can say is it should have come with it because man is it cool!

I can shift the PHD to dig straight right from the seat and the side link cylinders give a bit of downforce...although I have an idea for another mod. where I can use the top link cylinder via a linkage to add some more down force. It is a bit more sensitive with the bush hog but I am learning.

All I can say is thanks to all who helped with this most awesome mod.

WOOHOO! ;D

[quikduk]

Here is some additional information that I provided to Tim when he wasn't happy with how the stock SV handles were configured.

Standard Handles (like the SV picture):

-Vertical Joystick Kit No.: 660180026 (bent at about a 90)
-Straight Joystick Kit No.: 660180028 $15.00
-Short Joystick Kit No.: 660180087 $13.00
-Heavy Duty Adjustable Joystick Kit No.: 660180007 $29.90

www.princehyd.com/Default.aspx?tabid=45

then scroll down to the parts manual for Stacked Valves (SV) pages 18,19,20 or try this- but it doesn't always work...

www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/SVManual.pdf

In retrospect, I have been thinking about re-working this whole valve and adding two more cable operated spools to replace the Chinese FEL valve. Of course I would have to re-make the top mounting plate, change the IN and PB lines (possibly to steel tubing) and then resell my new Brand Hydraulics joystick valve. When I finish a few other items, I will look into this.

[GuglioLS]

Ken,

Super sano install, man that sure does sparkle. I'm really impressed with the valve bracket and the way it's attached. IMHO TNT is one of the most necessary and useful mod's a tractor can have. You, Rob, Tim and Jake (don't forget his came out perfect as well) all deserve a blue ribbon award for the cleanest install of TNT. Mine looks like some redneck job, but what the hey, at least it works. After seeing how good these all came out, I'm embarrassed to post any pics of my setup.

Larry

[3RRL]

That was a great install you did Ken.
It came out cleaner than mine for sure. Of course I use mine. ;D (JK)
IMHO, I think you're crazy thinking about switching to steel lines. That one little problem you have of pinching your hose could probably be dealt with using some sort of 90° or something else to re-route a hose or two? Probably...
It's got to be cheaper and less work than doing it all over in hard lines man?
Rob-

[quikduk]

I know I know. It is just idle thinking...or my brain idling...

I don't have time or $ to mess with it right now. I will see what comes of my idling thoughts when I have everything torn apart.

[tuffytractor]

If I haven't mentioned it, your job is top notch, good work Ken. Your paint is awesome, as usual!