add on remotes

[baknblack]

Would someone that has added remotes to your tractor chime in about where you got your valve.

The prince 2 spool valves are everywhere, complete with handles for around $150 new.

The Husco 2 spool valve is much cheaper at around $75 but, doesn't come with the handles/linkages and, I can't seem to locate handles for it.

At the risk of sounding like a cheap bastard(which I am), where is the cheapest place to get a valve?

Do I have no hope except to try to get a used one off ebay for a decent price or bite the bullet and spend 150.

[GuglioLS]

Do I have no hope except to try to get a used one off eBay for a decent price or bite the bullet and spend 150

Dwayne,
I was wondering when you were going to start a hydraulic upgrade project....
You'll spend that or more off eBay. Seems to me you already have found the best price for a new valve. Hoses, fittings, adapters QD's and cylinder(s) will add up pretty quickly too. Unless your willing to stretch this out over a L.. o... n... g... time and get lucky to get deals off eBay, it's gonna cost.

What up? Installing a hydraulic top link? Tilt links? or other?

Larry

[GuglioLS]

I guess I forgot to answer your real questing -

I got most of my stuff here and there from Surplus Center, Bailey hydraulics, Discount hose, and eBay.

This may help for web links -
Links and Charts

Larry

[quikduk]

Dwayne:

Larry is right on the money. Surplus Center is your best bet for the spool valves, hoses and fittings. You need to decide if you want it expandable to more spools in the future or not before you select one.

The Husco and others might be o.k. but you NEED open center and the flow rating is important too since our pumps can't flow what some of those valves require. Look for something between 10-20 GPM and ORB ports are better than NPT for less leaking but both will do the job fine. Rob uses some HD teflon tape and 10,000 psi liquid pipe dope and his don't seem to leak.

Baileys is also a great choice for cylinders.

E-Bay is o.k. but I can guarantee NO risk with the other two and their after sale support is great.

I would recommend trying to "measure" out the hoses you need and figure out all of the fittings required for your valve and cylinder choices so that when it comes time to assemble it, you have everything you need at hand. If you have a close hyd. shop, they could help with the odd fitting that you forgot to order.

Good luck.

[baknblack]

gugliols said:

What up? Installing a hydraulic top link? Tilt links? or other?
Larry

right now I just want to be able to operate a disc with hydraulic wheel lift. I figured since I was doing it I might as well install at least a 2 spool valve. I'm sure once I have the remotes I can find lotsa uses for em.

[quikduk]

If you buy a Prince SV valve, you can specify the type and quantity of spools and add them as needed with only the addition of the new spool, a longer bolt kit and the new hoses and cylinder (if required).

This is the way that Tim and I went.

Check out my T&T addition here for my process and pitfalls:

Ken's T&T Project

[3RRL]

Dwayne,
I get almost all my stuff at Surplus Center the link that Larry gave you.
Be sure to get a valve with power beyond so you don't stress any other valves in the series with back pressure. Get the power beyond sleeve for it. A 2 spool valve (for 2 sets rear remotes) should do you good.
I got a 3 spool valve and actually use all 3 remotes, but it is rare. I generally use one set for the hydraulic top link and other two for the hydraulic rippers on my boxblade. When I have the hydraulic quick attach guage wheels on that, I need that 3rd set, but that's the only time.
Rob-

[quikduk]

Rob is correct. I forgot about the PB sleeve. It is critical to getting full hyd. pressure to the cylinder you are using without taking too much pressure away from the rest of the hyd. system. If you don't us a PB, then the pressure will drop the further you "split-off" the system.

You can get a basic 2-spool with PB for around $150 or so. I chose a 3-spool valve for my T&T. Rob had side-link remotes already so his 3-spool valve operates his top link, geared box rippers and a spare. Tim has a 4-spool version of my valve since the 4th spool operates his flip down box rippers.

The cool thing about the SV series is that you can customize them now OR later depending on need rather than having to buy another different/bigger valve in the future.

[baknblack]

quikduk said:

Rob is correct. I forgot about the PB sleeve. It is critical to getting full hyd. pressure to the cylinder you are using

Ok, I'm confused now. Take a look at these diagrams and tell me how I need to plump the thing.

www.insidersecretstohydraulics.com/power-beyond.html

Right now I think my flow is out from pump, to FEL, to lift box valve, to tank. I have a Koyker loader.

[quikduk]

You have a couple of options. I'll call them #1 (the way I did mine) and #2.

1. You take a new hose from the high pressure (HP) line OUT from the pump and feed this into your new 2-spool valves IN port. If you want a liquid filled pressure gauge, you would place it here between the valves IN port and this hose.

You then use the power beyond (PB) sleeve for your new 2-spool valve (did you get one?) and and run that line to the IN port on your Koyker loader valve (which is where the original pump HP-OUT line went to).

You then can leave the existing OUT port hose on the Koyker loader valve alone. I am assuming here that this hose currently feeds your 3-point lift valve (mounted on the hyd. reservoir below your seat).

You will have to add one extra hose to your new 2-spool valve. Since you are using the PB on that valve to supply full pressure to your Koyker loader valve, you need a "return to tank" hose. There is no forgetting this step. I plumbed mine into the "return" line (hard metal) from my half-remotes (used typically for the factory Jinma dump trailers) seen in these two pics.



This hose is critical in that it allows the 2-spool valve to bypass back to the reservoir (tank) when you reach the limits of the cylinders that are attached to this 2-spool valve, both when retracting and extending. If you don't use a return to sump line, you will ruin the valve, possibly the Koyker valve, the hyd. pump, misc. other lines/hoses and possibly hurt (or worse) yourself.

2. This method is similar but you would feed the Koyker loader valve first from the pump. you would need the Koyker valve PB sleeve and plumb the same as #1 except the Koyker valve would need the return to tank hose while the new 2-spool valve would have its OUT port feed the 3-point lift valve. This way can require more/longer hoses but works just the same.

I will be adding my Larry/Rob/Loretta grapple soon so I opted for #1 as it is easier for me to add the electric diverter solenoid.

Remember that hyd. fluid is under extreme pressure and goes through skin and bone like a hot knife through butter but with devestating effects. Check leaks with a piece of heavy cardboard and NEVER your hand (or other body part). The assembly is fairly straight forward. When you are done, start the tractor and cycle all valves/cylinders a few times. This purges the air out of the lines, hoses and valves. Pull the reservoir cap and top off the hyd. fluid and go out and play...er...I mean work.

[baknblack]

quikduk said:

You then use the power beyond (PB) sleeve for your new 2-spool valve (did you get one?)

I haven't bought the valve yet. Is this what I want. 2 spool SV OC with power beyond then for spools DA spring centered?

I understand the plumbing now, thanks.

[quikduk]

Yes that valve sounds right. Once again:

OC (open center) as that is what OUR hyd. systems are.

PB (power beyond sleeve) allows full hyd. pressure to continue throughout the system regardless of valve use.

SV (Prince brand) allows multiple spools in "series" to be added or removed from a "set" with the minor change of shorter/longer assembly bolt kits.

Spring Centered is best for spools since it allows a "neutral" position when you need to adjust your position etc. It allows the valve to be "open" in neutral which allows continuous flow of fluid through the valve. The valves operation in either direction (extend or retract) blocks these neutral ports and diverts flow to the valve(s) and cylinder(s) you are using and only bypasses when it hits the max. pressure relief setting...which BTW on your tractor is around 2000 psi.

DA (double acting) cylinders are what you use on side links, top links, loaders, grapples etc. since you have one hose that propels the cylinder out and one that retracts it.

Hope this helps.

[3RRL]

Dwayne,
What Ken told you is correct. You can "T" the return to sump into ANY return to sump line.

Let's walk through this together.
1) I'm presuming your pump high pressure line goes to your Koyker loader valve. Is that right?
2) I'm presuming if you have a Koyker loader, there are 7 hoses connected to that valve, right?
One high pressure in.
One retrun to sump or tank,
Four to the workports for your loader cylinders.
One from the power beyond to the rear 3pt valve.

If that's correct, then where do you want your new rear remote valve to sit?
On the right rear fender or there abouts?

If that too is correct, then I would
- Take the power beyond hose out of your Koyker loader valve and connect a NEW hose from that to the "in" of your new rear remote valve. If you want a pressure gauge, you could put one in between here, either at your loader valve or the new rear remote valve.

-Connect that hose which you just took out of your Koyker loader valve (from the power beyond) and connect it to the power beyond port on your new rear remote valve. You could also put a gauge here too, between the hose and your valve if you want. Depends where your best view of the gauge will be, of course.

-Then run a NEW hose from the "exit" on your new rear remote valve to "return to sump or tank". You can use any opening which goes to the hydraulic reservoir tank or you can "T" into the return to sump from your Koyker loader valve, whichever is easier. The return to sump is a low pressure line.

-Then run 4 hoses from the work ports on your new rear remote valve to a bulkhead with QD's on the ends. Those will be your rear remote QD's. Pair them up like A and B, C and D for each set.

I your pump high pressure line goes to your Koyker loader first, that is the easiest way to do it.
If not, we need to know where it goes first.
Rob-

[baknblack]

3rrl said:

Rob, My tractor is not with me. It's at my farm. I'll have to look this weekend but, I think I only have 6 hoses on the loader. Mine may be wrong already.

I did notice once my wife put the loader in float and when i tried to raise the lift the loader raised also. So pressure was feeding back to the valve.

[3RRL]

Dwayne,
Loretta's Jinma 284 fel valve only has 6 hoses going to it also. I looked for a power beyond plug but did not see one. Did I miss it???
I was also to busy to check where all the hoses go. That's why I asked those questions in her 284 thread.

Anyway, print out what I wrote above so you can start to visualize how you want to run the other hoses for your new valve. And then write some stuff down when you get to the farm.
-Which model do you have? The 284 or 354? (sorry I don't recall)
-How many hoses come from your loader valve?
-Where do each of them go?
-Is there another (7th) hole blocked off that could be the power beyond with a plug in it?
- Where does the high pressure line from your pump go to? To the fel valve or to the 3pt valve?
-How many hoses does your 3pt valve on it, can you tell?
-Where do they go?
-Is it exterior or inside the hydraulic box? On my Kama, the 3pt valve is the last valve in line and is inside the hydraulic box.

I can tell you if one valve feeds another in series, it needs to be done via a power beyond port to be correct.
Remember, a lot of these tractors were not used with a loader in the rice fields, so the Chinese may have the wrong valve on it or not plumbed it with power beyond. The system may be set up only for a 3pt valve originally? I dunno. That is why some guys experience the 3pt lifting when the bucket lifts ... there's back pressure in the system to ALL valves instead of isolating it to the valve being used.
Rob-