add on remotes

[baknblack]

Rob, I've got the kama 354 but it has the PTO powered pump that runs all the hydraulics except the steering.

The Koyker loader valve does have a power beyond port but, I don't think it's being used. I think it's plugged off.

I'll look at all that stuff when I get a chance.

I appreciate all the good advice.

[3RRL]

Well if it does have the power beyond port, and even if it's not being used, you are in business.

I presume then, if there are only 6 hoses to it now, it might be the last valve in line. In other words, your pump high pressure line goes to your 3pt valve. Presumably, there is a power beyond from the 3 point valve feeding the "in" of your loader valve. The loader valve only has 6 hoses so the "exit" on that valve goes to your sump or tank. I say "presumably" because that's how it should be in order to have a correct hydraulic circuit.

Now if the high pressure line from your pump goes to the fel Koyker valve first and from there to the 3pt valve, then they are not using the power beyond on that valve and that's why sometimes your fel raises when you work the 3pt lift as you describe here: I did notice once my wife put the loader in float and when i tried to raise the lift the loader raised also. So pressure was feeding back to the valve. Follow the "out" of your fel valve to see where it goes. They probably have the "out" from the fel valve going to the "in" on your 3pt valve, I'll bet.

Regardless of which way it's hooked up now, if your fel Koyker valve has the power beyond port in it, this is what I recommend you do.
1) Buy the bower beyond sleeve that goes in the fel Koyker valve.
2) Buy the new rear remote valve (open center) with power beyond sleeve in it or for it.
3) Where ever your pump high pressure line goes now, disconnect it from there and hook it up to the "in" on your Koyker fel valve. Perhaps it is already going to the "in" on that valve so you don't even have to do that step. But if it's not, hook up the high pressure line from the pump to the "in" on your Koyker fel valve. This may mean if your existing hose doesn't reach, you may have to get a hose long enough to reach.
4) If I were you, I would put a gauge in between right there. Between the "in" on your fel valve and the high pressure line to the gauge. Position it so you can see it.
5) Find where the "out" line of your fel valve goes and disconnect it from the fel valve. Either at the valve or at where it goes into. Remember where it goes to for the following steps.

6) OK, so now you stick in the power beyond sleeve into your Koyker fel valve.
7) Run a hose from that power beyond to the "in" of your new rear remote valve.
8) Now, on your new rear remote valve, get a hose into that power beyond sleeve and run it to where the FEL valve "out" USED to go in step (5). This could mean you can use that same hose or you might need a new one to make that connection.

So now you are left with the fel valve "out" and the "out" on your new rear remote valve.
9) Get 3 hoses and a "T".
10) Connect one hose to the fel "out".
11) Connect another hose to the new rear remote valve "out".
12) Hook both those hoses to the "T".
13) Hook up the 3rd hose to the last part of the "T".
14) Run that hose (from the "T") into the sump or tank. There should be a plug or something on the hydraulic tank (sump) where you can do that. Ken said he used the 1/2 remote for his return to sump and that's OK to do.
15) Make or buy a bulkhead bracket and bolt to your tractor rear fender, but away from the 3pt. This is to give you room to connect and disconnect the fitting without having be "inside" the implement.
16) From the new rear remote valve work ports (4 of them), run hoses to the bulkhead and use quick connect/disconnect couplers (QD's). The sets should be A and B, C and D. I would put one male and one female on each set. That way when you unplug an implement, you always reconnect it the same way.

Now your are done and can start the tractor after filling your hydraulic tank up, since you probably lost some fluid doing this. Let it run and work the fel and 3 pt to get the hydraulic fluid moving. Then plug in your implement and try the rear remotes. If they run backwards to what you want, you might have to switch the QD's so they're going the way you want when you pull the levers. Make both sets the same so it doesn't matter which set you use.

Both the Koyker fel valve and the new rear remote valve should have pressure valves in them. You can set those reliefs by activating those valves until they start to relieve. Read the pressure on the gauge you installed and adjust each relief valve one at a time. In other words, work the fel valve to relief and set that relief where you want, and do the same for the new rear remote valve. I would set the pressure for the valve relief at or just below your rated system psi.

I think that's it.
Did I miss something? Anybody?
Rob-

[GuglioLS]

Dwayne - I don't remember if you mentioned what FEL you have? Koyker, Chinese ZL? or something else?

Here are some options on how to plumb it.
If you have a Koyker valve they do not come with Power Beyond installed. But do have the capability to install a PB fitting. Do you have your Koyker FEL manual? and Exact model #? Call Koyker, they will sell the PB plug to you directly. They did for me anyway.

ZL loader valves do not have Power beyond capability.


Option 1: .............. Option 2:
PB on FEL Valve......PB on Remote valve..



Larry

[3RRL]

I see in both your drawings Larry, you have the 1st valve using power beyond to feed the 2nd valve in line, but no PB to feed the 3pt hitch valve? As another option, you could feed the 2nd valve without PB also, making it even simpler. That's like Loretta's Jinma is plumbed now. But IMHO, it would be better to use PB to feed the next valve in line. Not just the 2nd, but the third and so on, depending how many valves you have in the hydraulic circuit.

Speaking of how Loretta's tractor is plumbed, I think by not using power beyond and having no pressure relief for the pump itself is probably one of the reasons Jinma has a reputation for valve failures and hydraulic problems.
I would even go as far to say plumbing like that has even more effect on valves of lessor quality than on superior valves.
It's too bad that they don't address that issue since that's been a complaint for a long time now. I've got similar plumbing issues with Loretta's hydraulics to work out. I may have to plumb without power beyond unless I change valves.
Money is always and issue.
Rob-