3RRL
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Huge Kama
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Post by 3RRL on May 28, 2008 10:41:19 GMT -5
Looks like Chip already answered about getting to the drive shaft. Yes, you have to take the front differential off like he says and slide the drive shaft out I think. However, I did not do that. Another interesting thing he said is the rotation of the drive shaft/differential being different than wheel turn. From my tear down, I could see that the front drive AXLE and front drive bevel (or miter but I think bevel is correct) gear turned the same...at least it looked like they were the same gear size. I didn't check to see what the ratio was from the drive SHAFT to the front differential nor to the wheels. So I don't know how many revolutions the drive shaft makes vs the axles vs the wheels.
The front axle bevel gear drives another bevel gear at the very top of the front drive unit on each wheel. There is a vertical shaft from that bevel gear to another at the bottom of the front drive unit. That lower bevel gear turns a large bevel gear which is fastened to the front wheel itself. So there has to be a reduction right there.
I would take off the front drive unit(s) from the axles first. That will expose the front axle bevel gear and top bevel gear in the front drive. That is fairly easy to do. It should also allow you to slide out each front axle if you want. Then work your way back to the front differential and front drive shaft. If all that is OK, you'll need to tear apart the front drive unit(s) themselves to see if there is a broken tooth in there.
Hopefully, it will be right on those first bevel gears on the axle and/or top of the front drive or both (that set). From the manual, it did not look like fun going into the front differential so I hope you find the problem in the front drive units themselves.
Rob-
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Post by baknblack on May 29, 2008 14:31:30 GMT -5
Rob, I've been perusing my manual and I think the drive shaft comes out by removing some cir-clips on the shaft and sliding some couplings. It seems to be made in 2 pieces?
Would you look and see what you think? If this is true this is going to be very easy to get into. Just pull the half shafts to remove the pinion gear the the differential should unbolt and come right out?
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3RRL
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Huge Kama
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Post by 3RRL on May 29, 2008 19:12:28 GMT -5
Rob, I've been perusing my manual and I think the drive shaft comes out by removing some cir-clips on the shaft and sliding some couplings. It seems to be made in 2 pieces? Would you look and see what you think? If this is true this is going to be very easy to get into. Just pull the half shafts to remove the pinion gear the the differential should unbolt and come right out? Yes, it should be pretty easy. I don't know about yours, but on my 554 it shows those circlips too... 2 on each shaft. They hold the bevel gear on each half shaft, one in front and one behind the bevel gear. The shafts should slide out of the front differential ... out the axle housing. Look at my photographs.       You can see all the damage I suffered was right on that bevel gear on the shaft and also the mating one inside the front drive unit. I had no damage in the front differential nor on the other (lower) bevel gear in the front drive unit. This is looking inside the front drive unit at the bevel gear that mates with the axle(s).    These below are of the short vertical shaft inside the front drive unit. It has 2 bevel gears on it. One on the top which mates to the axle and one on the bottom which mates to the large ring type bevel gear.    Here below is the lower bevel gear (different view) that mates with the large ring bevel gear or main drive gear. No damage to either of those.    Like I said, I checked by rotating and there were no "clunks" of any kind while rotating the axles. So I figured the axles, differential and front drive shaft were OK. Man, I hope that helps you a little Dwayne. Rob- |
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Post by baknblack on Jun 2, 2008 16:47:21 GMT -5
Rob, your pictures help a lot. If everything goes as planned I'm going to take it aprt next sat.
Question, Did you use new gaskets , make your own, or just use a sealant?
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3RRL
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Huge Kama
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Post by 3RRL on Jun 2, 2008 18:27:56 GMT -5
Actually, as I recall, there were no "gaskets" but rather "O" rings to do the sealing. I replaced those which I screwed up using grease. What looks to be gaskets are probably the steel shims they use to set the gear distances correctly. There were steel shims on every "bolted together" plate. Be sure to save and clean them up. I reinstalled them and used less shims where I felt the gear engagement could be a little better. You can see them here if you look closely where the bolts holding the housings together are. They look like gaskets.    Rob- |
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Post by baknblack on Jun 8, 2008 19:04:40 GMT -5
Well, it's not good. 2 teeth off the ring gear and the pinion gear is pretty buggered up as well. Chip, I'll be calling you Monday!!!!    The front end was trying to lock as I backed it in to take it apart. On a side note we got the baler out for a test, that didn't go well either, lol. We did gain a new addition to the family though.   |
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quikduk
CTW Life Member
Dog House
Posts: 552
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Post by quikduk on Jun 9, 2008 9:51:21 GMT -5
Very pretty. I can't tell from the picture but it appears to be a mare. Would I be correct or is she a filly still? BTW, I am assuming it is a female since I can't see any "hangy-down-parts". Very nice though. The mane is very short. Is this standard for this type of horse or has it been cut short for summer? Oh, and bummer about the ring and pinion issue.  Ken |
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Post by baknblack on Jun 9, 2008 10:15:13 GMT -5
Would I be correct or is she a filly still? Very nice though. Is this standard for this type of horse or has it been cut short for summer? She is still a filly. Maybe someone trimmed her main. I think it's supposed to be longer. she's a Pasa Fino. I got her for my wife. You can tell she is a little thin. She's been eating solidly for 2 days!!! About the front diff. As expensive as the gears are I think I may try to be a little more careful in the future and not use my tractor for a bull dozer. |
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3RRL
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Huge Kama
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Post by 3RRL on Jun 9, 2008 10:29:11 GMT -5
Bummer it's in the ring and pinion.
I was hoping you'd find something a little easier and less expensive to fix in the front drives. It's odd to me that you had damage there before having it in the front drives. Those helical planetarys are a lot stronger than the straight cut ones bevels in the front drives.
(I'm assuming there was no damage there?) Did you check the front drives?
Did you determine the cause? Did the teeth just snap or was there some evidence of something getting in between them.
If you remembers, in one of my threads I found a loose (new) dowel pin while changing out the transmission oil. Something like that can get between the gear teeth and explode them.
Rob-
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Post by baknblack on Jun 9, 2008 10:42:25 GMT -5
Did you check the front drives? Did you determine the cause? Did the teeth just snap or was there some evidence of something getting in between them. I didn't really determine a cause but, it looks to me like the gears weren't meshing deep enough. There is what seems to me a lot of back lash. Right now I've got my fingers crossed that Chip has the parts. He's got some for your tractor and maybe an entire hog head for mine. |
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3RRL
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Huge Kama
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Post by 3RRL on Jun 9, 2008 11:17:35 GMT -5
He's got some for your tractor
Hahaha, is that some kind of insinuation as to how I treat my tractor? ;D
Rob-
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Post by baknblack on Jun 9, 2008 11:23:27 GMT -5
He's got some for your tractor Hahaha, is that some kind of insinuation as to how I treat my tractor? ;D Rob- They are tough little buggers aren't they, lol. Chip does have the complete hog head for me. The price. Ouch is all I'm gonna say. I hope I'll be more careful in the future. I didn't take the front drives apart. Just unbolted so I could get the axles out. Everything seemed to spinning good and smooth in there with no noise. |
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3RRL
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Post by 3RRL on Jun 9, 2008 11:29:23 GMT -5
Did you check the front drives? Did you determine the cause? Did the teeth just snap or was there some evidence of something getting in between them. I didn't really determine a cause but, it looks to me like the gears weren't meshing deep enough. There is what seems to me a lot of back lash. Right now I've got my fingers crossed that Chip has the parts. He's got some for your tractor and maybe an entire hog head for mine. I noticed that my gears were also set up with a lot of backlash and ended up removing shims for a better fit. I wonder if that is common practice over there? In my experience, we set them up just shy of net of the highest point or deepest engagement. (If there is a slight variance in tooth structure between gears). I hope Chip has those parts in stock, otherwise it's on a slow boat from China. If Chip doesn't have them, maybe some of the other guys might? Scott got all the gears for me directly from China. He got them to throw it in with the tractor order for free! What a guy. I was surprised to see what it would have cost though, how inexpensive it was ... about $250 for everything I got. Hope you get what you need Dwayne. Rob- |
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3RRL
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Post by 3RRL on Jun 9, 2008 11:33:33 GMT -5
Chip does have the complete hog head for me. The price. Ouch is all I'm gonna say. I hope I'll be more careful in the future. I didn't take the front drives apart. Just unbolted so I could get the axles out. Everything seemed to spinning good and smooth in there with no noise. Well, that's good news then, except for the cost part. Good to know nothing wrong with the front drives. They are a little bit of work with all those parts and bearings in there. Regarding the whole hog head, perhaps you can order replacement gears for your broken one? Like I said, it might not be too expensive just replacing those gears, and it would give you an entire spare. Rob- |
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Post by baknblack on Jun 9, 2008 12:23:17 GMT -5
Well, that's good news then It would be nice to have a spare since I don't know how to take my foot off the throttle. If you ever need to remove yours it's not bad. The drive shaft is held in by couplings on each end. Just slide the snap rings back then the couplings slide back. 4 bolts, 2 power steering lines, and tie rod ends. Then the whole front end comes out. |
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