Problem seal = bad bearing

[bradblazer]

Right after I got my tractor I had a problem with the 4wd shaft leaking gear oil at the seal coming out of the transmission. Here is a picture from back then:


It was taking a long time for the warranty seals to ship so I took the original seal, replaced the spring loop with an O-ring that made a tighter fit, and put it back together with good results. Finally I got the new seals but my fix was still holding.

About a year ago it started dripping again but fixing it was on the back burner. I finally decided to tackle it (this was at least a month ago - I'm catching up on posts) and drained just that section of the transmission and pulled the shaft apart. I took a good look at the seal and didn't see any obvious problem, then I wiggled the shaft and there was obviously too much slop in the bearing. I pulled it out and it was pretty much toast - the balls were all rough and even the keeper was scratched up. I guess it can be a rough life at the bottom of a new gear box from China.

[bradblazer]

The bearing was marked 6206 and I was able to get one at AutoZone. I think it was $18. The markings were very faint. I have a magnifier from HF I use all the time for stuff like that.
www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31679

Check out the grooves worn in the spacer bushing. I'm glad nothing else was damaged. That's the new bearing and seal ready to go.



I also pulled the bearing off the front of that shaft and it was in good shape. I would have replaced it anyhow but nobody had it in stock on a Saturday. I was pretty thankful to could get the 6206.


Here is the shaft reassembled. I should have taken more pictures. The cover telescopes out of the way and a roll pin holds the splined shaft coupling in place. To get the driveshaft off I actually had to loosen the front axle pivot and let it drop until the end of the drive shaft cleared the gear box - then it could be pulled out of the differential and set aside.

[3RRL]

Nice write up Brad.
It's great to know some of those bearings we need can be gotten over the counter. Did even try to get the seal as well, or did you just order it from the warranty?
It's really good you took photos of that front drive shaft section. When I did my front drive gear repairs, I didn't have to go back that far so I've never had a good look at the front drive shaft. Your photos will come in handy for me in the event I need to do the same. Pretty soon, together, we'll have a photo documentary of every repair on those tractors.

Here is the shaft reassembled. I should have taken more pictures. The cover telescopes out of the way and a roll pin holds the splined shaft coupling in place. To get the driveshaft off I actually had to loosen the front axle pivot and let it drop until the end of the drive shaft cleared the gear box - then it could be pulled out of the differential and set aside.
I wish you had taken some of how you had to do that. That part is one of those steps where you say to yourself "now how am I gonna get this thing off of here?". Did you happen to replace the retainer clips or were you able to use the old ones. I found on mine that were not to resilient, but was able to use them again.
I also saw in that old photo how your loader hoses were hanging way down. That is all fixed now that you moved the valve, right?
Other than that, how is your Kama holding up? How many hours do you have on it now?
Rob-

[bradblazer]

Thanks Rob.
I had a couple of new seal sets the dealer had sent under warranty the first time it leaked. I also replaced the o-rings on the aluminum seal holder and the front of the shaft cover where it goes into the differential. I just remembered I had to deburr the chamfer where the seal holder slides in to keep it from shaving that o-ring.

There was just one retainer clip on the front bearing. It seemed pretty good and I re-used it.

Yeah, that was an early picture with the hoses hanging down. I had tied them up to the step with a big zip tie after that. Now they are all several inches above the sub-frame.

It's running good for me otherwise. The only nagging issue is a little weeping of gear oil from the right front axle pivot. I used it today to drag some big logs out and had all 4 spinning a little. The hour meter is on 198. It is still cranking fine on the original battery.

Brad

[Rich Waugh]

On bearings:

I was repairing/rebuilding my almost-antique DR brush mower the other day and discovered that the lower blade spindle bearing was trashed. When I pulled it, I was astonished to discover that this made-in-a-garage-in-Vermont machine used METRIC bearings for the spindle! Surprise, surprise, Sgt. Carter...

Well, nobody on St. Croix had any metric bearings, so I checked my MSC big book and, sure enough, they had just what I needed. 20 x 47 x 14 mm sealed bearing for $7.76, ready to ship the next day. The listings of metric bearings was fairly extensive, too. I actually opted to modify the thing to use a different, 20x47x20.6 mm double-row bearing for a bit better life with the heavier blade I made for it. That one was over twice the price, but will be worth it, I think.

Anyway, the point being that MSC is a good source for those oddball bearings if local supply fails and you don't want to wait forever for the importer to get you one. They're available online, too.

Rich