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Post by baknblack on Dec 15, 2008 12:15:35 GMT -5
I found out from a couple other guys like Brad and Greg that the front drive shaft cannot be removed without a) splitting the tractor That's funny, when I had to replace the front hog head on my 354 kama the driveshaft was easy to remove. I just removed a snap ring on each end and slid the locking collar back. I guess the bigger ones are different. |
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3RRL
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Post by 3RRL on Dec 15, 2008 18:47:31 GMT -5
Hi Dwayne, That just goes to show you how different some can be. My 4wd shaft cover had no circlips. Only bolts holding it onto each half. After loosening those from the front differential and rear drive, I could slide (collapse) the shaft cover and expose the splined coupler. Then I had to hammer the tubular dowel out and slide the coupler back. But after doing that, there was not enough room for the shaft to miss the rear part. It would not clear. I know Brad posted his shaft removal somewhere and he said (I think) he had to remove the front axle differential and tilt it so he could get the shaft out. Maybe he could post a link to that thread? I'd like to see it again. How's the weather out your way?  Rob- |
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Post by bradblazer on Dec 15, 2008 20:31:06 GMT -5
These 2 pictures show the 4 bolts I loosened to drop the front axle enough to slide the shaft out. Not too convenient but it shouldn't need to be done very often. I lifted the front off the ground with the loader and added a big jackstand for extra support. The bolts have a lot of thread travel so the axle can be dropped quite a ways without fully removing them. I seem to remember some dowel pins in the bolted connection and I having to pry a little to get it started.   How did Greg G say he removed his fwd shaft? If you attach the shaft assembly back to the front differential with the covers telescoped back and the splined collar slid on, when you put the tractor halves together the shaft will be ready to re-attach. You do not have to align it during the major operation since it will be just SHORT of touching the stub shaft with the tractor halves fully mated. Here is the link to my thread about the stub axle bearings. It is 2 down from this one.  chinesetractor.proboards66.com/index.cgi?board=kama&action=display&thread=455Sorry I don't have much experience with installing clutches. I will say it does look like the throwout bearing is the likely culprit. Feel free to call anyway, Brad |
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Post by bradblazer on Dec 15, 2008 20:49:52 GMT -5
Rob, When you removed the shaft cover tubes, no oil should have come out. There are seals on each end and the shaft should run dry inside the covers. Check out this picture of the assembled seal going into the transfer case. The rotating seal goes in that shiny carrier and an o-ring seals that to the port in the casting.  The covers have o-ring seals but mine will drip if the seals are leaking like this.  So anyhow, double check that stub shaft to make sure it is sealed and the bearings are good. Brad |
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GuglioLS
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Jinma354 LE
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Post by GuglioLS on Dec 15, 2008 21:41:11 GMT -5
A bit off topic, but I just noticed the FWD shaft seems to run through what seems like the oil pan? Is there two oil drain plugs for each half of the pan then? Do you always remember to remove both plugs so as to get all the oil out for an oil change?
Larry
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Post by bradblazer on Dec 15, 2008 22:09:13 GMT -5
Yep - 2 plugs. The shape of the pan is so obvious it's easy to remember to pull both.
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GuglioLS
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Post by GuglioLS on Dec 15, 2008 22:18:42 GMT -5
Yep - 2 plugs. The shape of the pan is so obvious it's easy to remember to pull both. Uh Oh so in other words - "So obvious even a cave man can do it"? LOL does that mean Rob has never drained out all his oil? Or maybe he drains it out one side, and vacuums it out the other like his injector pump? Larry |
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Post by baknblack on Dec 16, 2008 8:00:18 GMT -5
How's the weather out your way? Typical Kentucky weather. One day is 60, next day it's freezing rain and snow. Plus it stays cloudy and overcast about 90% of the time here in winter. Our dang IT department has blocked all images from forums somehow. I can't see any pictures at work anymore.  |
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Dave
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Post by Dave on Dec 16, 2008 8:37:21 GMT -5
A bit off topic, but I just noticed the FWD shaft seems to run through what seems like the oil pan? Is there two oil drain plugs for each half of the pan then? Do you always remember to remove both plugs so as to get all the oil out for an oil change? Larry My DF354 with Changchai Engine is exactly the same. When I did my oil change recently I opened both to get as much out as possible. Dave |
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3RRL
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Post by 3RRL on Dec 16, 2008 10:48:49 GMT -5
Yep - 2 plugs. The shape of the pan is so obvious it's easy to remember to pull both. Uh Oh so in other words - "So obvious even a cave man can do it"? LOL does that mean Rob has never drained out all his oil? Or maybe he drains it out one side, and vacuums it out the other like his injector pump? Larry Oh man, here we go... ;D ;D ;D |
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3RRL
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Post by 3RRL on Dec 16, 2008 11:04:40 GMT -5
Brad, Thanks for the link and photos and explanation of how you got the 4wd axle out. lol ... I remember you had to do something but couldn't remember.  I should be able to line it up when re-assembling. I know now what you're talking about the oil leak on the rear side of the 4wd shaft. When I first slid that tubular cover to the front, that one seal which is held in the middle box protrusion came forward with it, thus all the oil came with it. If you look closely at the housing in those photos posted earlier, you can see that "O" ringed seal is out of the housing, exposing the "O" ring on it. Not knowing any better at the time, I unscrewed the drain plug right there. Then I slid it back into the housing and the oil stopped of course. Maybe I should "punch" it to keep it tighter in that housing? Rob-  |
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Post by bradblazer on Dec 16, 2008 20:36:15 GMT -5
I see what happened. The bearing behind that seal comes out pretty easy on mine - you might want to pull it out and clean it since it just strained all of your oil.
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3RRL
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Post by 3RRL on Dec 16, 2008 21:15:19 GMT -5
I took the clutch apart today. (I got up here 1 day early) It was an intimidating thought to split the tractor and tackle the clutch repair since I'd never done it before. Once I got it apart though, I got the feeling it's not that hard to do after all. And what you guys said now means something to me since I got to "see" how it all bolts up and works. I have a couple questions later about setting the stack height, but for now I wanted to show some pictures of the clutch pack dis-assembled. I labeled them all. You can see there is no bluing or warpage on the clutch components. In fact, the main clutch was only slightly worn down and you can still see the original marks on the PTO clutch (close up). The main clutch measures 8.89-8.915mm and the PTO clutch measures 9.144-9.169mm. What is the thickness of the new clutch? I've decided to get new clutch plates from Chip for sure, but I can't any wear on the pressure plates or disc springs at all, so I don't think I need them. You can still see the Blanchard grind marks on the pressure plates, so I figure they are good. What do you think?    The parts that are trashed are the fingers. So I will get new ones for sure. The other part that's trash is the throw out bearing. It's frozen and I need a new one. I pressed it off the bearing seat, which is still perfect. My guess is somehow the throw out bearing got frozen and that's how the fingers wore out.    |
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3RRL
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Post by 3RRL on Dec 16, 2008 21:46:52 GMT -5
While I was at it, I also got the 4wd shaft completely out and cleaned. Got new "O" rings ready to install upon the re-assembly. I might paint it first?   |
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GuglioLS
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Post by GuglioLS on Dec 17, 2008 0:38:15 GMT -5
Rob,
For the hours you have and the amount of work you've done, the old clutch disk look to be in decent shape with quite a bit of life left in it, however without seeing a new one to
compare it to it's hard to judge how much wear it has really sustained. That clutch pack is massive, I bet it's heavy too. The fingers must be pretty soft compared to the throw out bearing for them to wear out like that. I wonder if it be worth getting the new ones heat treated?
I think the trick getting it back together is going to be getting the two clutch disc's perfectly centered to the pilot bearing, then getting the main shaft and PTO shaft splines to all line up at the same time as you side the two halves back together, not only that you got to deal with the front drive shaft splines at the same time. I suppose you could engage the PTO lever then turn the output shaft until the splines line up, maybe somehow do the same thing with the transmission so that shaft mates with the splines as well? It's going to be tricky. They always come apart much easier than they go back together. It doesn't look like your going to need very many parts for the repair so that's not bad.
Is the Throw out bearing a sealed bearing? or can it be user lubricated? I see a grease fitting at the back of the input shaft to the transmission what's that one for? I would think there is gear oil on the other side of that bearing and the grease fitting is redundant?
Larry
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I should be able to line it up when re-assembling.
