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Post by sokkerbob on Jan 4, 2009 1:42:44 GMT -5
Rob,
Regarding your "creepy" tractor, I would have to agree with Larry. When clutch is out the main shaft is spinning inside the transaxle, certain gears are spinning that perhaps are creating some sort of "hydrostatic effect" on the drive shaft. It might be possible that a shifter fork got bent and moved one of the gears just enough to cause this effect. However, if this theory be true, it would seem odd that it occurs both in forward and reverse. As long as it is not popping out or sliding into gear it should be nothing to worry about. (FYI I was person who had to split tractor and completely disassemble the transaxle when the main pinion bearing moved in the case)
Side note, I was speaking to my mechanic brother about your TO Bearing Mod and he gave you a two thumbs up. Besides automotive repair, he was diesel mechanic on a fishing boat in Alaska. He said the TO Bearing on Boat had the same set up. The reason being that engine, clutch, etc had such a long life expectancy and TO Bearing would not last long enough if one was not able to grease.
Bob
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Post by 3RRL on Jan 4, 2009 8:05:11 GMT -5
Interesting - Here are my thoughts on that.... The FEL is removed - lighter tractor, Huge Kama is on a smooth flat level surface for the first time in it's life and the tyranny fluid is probably cold? I bet it's just fluid coupling and nothing to worry about (I hope) Ride your tractor around for an hour or so pulling your box blade to warm up the gear oil, maybe it will go away after it warms up? Larry Good point Larry, I never thought of that. My Kama for 3-1/2 years has been on uneven dirt. I carry about 20psi in the rears and 30 psi in the fronts so the tires are puffed up too. That's why it rolled so easily for us. You may be on to something. The 2" x 2" clutch inspection port sounds small, just like the Ash Hole on your wood stove ;D My Jinma 354 clutch inspection port is like a barn door by comparison:  Larry Hahaha. lol Larry! ;D ;D Here's the inspection port on the Kama compared to your photo. So you can see what I mean about getting the adjustments right instead of having to work though that thing. Rob-  |
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Post by 3RRL on Jan 4, 2009 8:16:30 GMT -5
Rob, Regarding your "creepy" tractor, I would have to agree with Larry. When clutch is out the main shaft is spinning inside the transaxle, certain gears are spinning that perhaps are creating some sort of "hydrostatic effect" on the drive shaft. It might be possible that a shifter fork got bent and moved one of the gears just enough to cause this effect. However, if this theory be true, it would seem odd that it occurs both in forward and reverse. As long as it is not popping out or sliding into gear it should be nothing to worry about. Bob Yes, I agree with those possibilities as well. Mine is a shuttle shift. When it's in neutral, that puts the whole main transmission in or out of gear. So when the main transmission is say 1st gear ( or any gear for that matter), the shuttle shifter can be in either F or R or neutral. I don't change the location of 1st gear in the main transmission to go forward or reverse. If the hydrostatic parasitic rotational force exists in the main transmission, it can go in either F or R, depending where the shuttle shifter is. Side note, I was speaking to my mechanic brother about your TO Bearing Mod and he gave you a two thumbs up. Besides automotive repair, he was diesel mechanic on a fishing boat in Alaska. He said the TO Bearing on Boat had the same set up. The reason being that engine, clutch, etc had such a long life expectancy and TO Bearing would not last long enough if one was not able to grease. Bob Great, tell your brother thanks for me! Rob- |
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Post by Ranch Hand on Jan 4, 2009 10:40:42 GMT -5
I see setting the "stack height" while off the tractor was a total waste of time. If I ever have to do that I will remember not to bother trying. Larry Just a general comment; I think so as well..... waste of time. I haver never split a KAMA before but seeing / going by Rob's pic's etc.... it works like most all two stage clutches. To get close to doing a proper clutch pack , bench adjustment , the clutch assembly has to be compressed exactly how it would be when bolted up to the flywheel. Why not just bolt the clutch pack up to the flywheel while the tractor is split ??.... if one wanted to try to pre adjust before sliding the tractor back together?. On new, straight out of the crate , Jinma's 200 & 300 series tractors ......... I have adjusted the PTO disk & main disk (gap between the clutch fingers & release bearing). Split the tractor, then measure the finger height while the clutch pack is still compressed / mounted on the flywheel. Wrote down the measurements so when I split one for a clutch replacement I could simply mount the new clutch pack replacement assy on the flywheel, adjust it, slide the tractor back together, adjust clutch pedal linkage and be done. WRONG, for two reasons; 1) I found they are not consistent in drilling the holes in the shaft that runs through the bell housing where the fork attaches (with roll pins / bolts) that pushes the release bearing. 2) Not consistent in adjusting the clutch pedal stop bolt height. With the tractor together ..... I like and would adjust the gap between the fingers and release bearing to have a equal 1/8 gap with the clutch pedal linkage disconnected , which allows the release bearing to be all the way back (toward the transmission). This gap closes as the clutch wears and also ensures that the release bearing is not turning while your foot is not on the clutch.... which shortens the bearing life big time. A 14 thousand gap under the nut for the PTO disk adjustment. This gap / adjustment determines the sweet spot distance when the pedal is pushed 1/2 way to release the main disk and keep the PTO running. Then reconnect & adjust the external clutch pedal linkage to give me a inch - inch and half free travel in the top of the pedal. Then adjust the clutch pedal bolt stop height to ensure for proper clutch linkage travel for proper clutch operation. That makes four adjustments. Adjusting the clutch pack with a proper bench set up or bolted up to the flywheel prior to sliding back together will prob get you close but, will need to fine tune when back together. Just my 1/2 cent's. I enjoy reading your post Rob.!! Ronald Ranch Hand Supply |
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Post by 3RRL on Jan 4, 2009 20:23:41 GMT -5
Ronald,
I enjoyed reading your reply too.
Every bit of information will surely help others. Thanks for the information you gave me over the phone too. Between yourself, Tommy and Chip, it was a successful tractor split and re-assembly for me and Loretta.
BTW, I like what you said about moving the fingers out to where the throw out bearing sits when it's all the way back towards the transmission. I see each tractor is different because of the inconsistencies you listed. So in my case, that's why I tried to set the stack height to that 110.8mm on the bench. That would have put the fingers 2 to 3mm away from where the throw out bearing sat all the way back. But I screwed up the bench assembly part of it.
I also like what you said about setting the fingers and PTO gap while the clutch assembly is bolted to the flywheel. There is no doubt that way. The PTO gap is easy to set, but getting the finger height all the same would be a little harder doing it on the flywheel. Plus, the inspection window on the Kama is about 1/4 the size of the Jimna, so it's important to get them all the same before closing the tractor. They really make it hard.
Rob-
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Post by bracabric on Jan 5, 2009 16:10:06 GMT -5
Shims = very thin spacers
Dick
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Post by 3RRL on Jan 5, 2009 18:42:03 GMT -5
Shims = very thin spacers Dick Duh... lol ... thanks for that Dick. Your turn in the barrel.  I know I'm a little slow but I know what the "shims" are. hahaha ;D I wanted to know if I should check the spacing or gap clearance, if that could do anything with the "creeping". I thought maybe someone would know if that would affect it? Rob- |
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Post by bracabric on Jan 6, 2009 8:05:24 GMT -5
Sorry Rob, I though we were having another bought of American English V British English Viz; Valve lash = Valve gap; Zerk= Grease nipple;Trunk=Boot;Bonnet=Hood etc;
Did not mean to patronise ,
Dick
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Post by 3RRL on Jan 6, 2009 12:05:48 GMT -5
No problem Dick, LOL ...I was just giving you a hard time. ;D
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