Steel Wool Filter for Kama 554

[3RRL]

You may have read this thread about re-routing the breather on my Kama?
Re-Routing Breather Tube on Kama 554
What this did is re-route some of the blow by from my engine back into the air intake manifold so it could be re-burned. Larry had mentioned that his breather is plumbed to his intake manifold on his Jinma and so is Loretta's 284. Where I put the end of the breather tubing, it went into my air filter so I could still read the Filter Minder if the filter got plugged up. I didn't want to get a false reading from air being sucked into it from the breather cap, bypassing the air filter.



Anyway, I figured the filter would get plugged faster ... which it did because of the oil vapors now going into it. It showed up on the filter minder when it got plugged up. The photos below are NOT of the plug up but just show the Filter minder that Larry installed for me.
Rob-

[3RRL]

I tried to wash out the paper element and dry it out, but the paper clumped together and the filter was destroyed.



I had bought spares from Chip at Artrac and they are pretty expensive to replace. In fact, I just ordered another spare filter. Anyway, after ruining the paper filter, I went retro and removed the paper element. I bought some 000 steel wool and jammed it into the air filter case pretty tightly. Then glued the filter ends back together again with an oil resistant RTV material. I did this when I had just over 600 hours and now I have nearly 630 hours on the Kama. It seems to be working pretty good. The oil vapors from the breather lubricate the steel wool making collection of debris sort of like the old oil bath air filters.
Rob-

[bradblazer]

Rob,
Nice work. Is there any danger of the steel wool itself fuzzing off?

What are the dimensions of your filter? (I have the oil bath)
I have a couple of surplus filters 5 1/4" OD by 8" tall that look a lot like yours. No hole in the top but I'm sure you could fix that. If you think they'll work I'll send them.

[3RRL]

Hi Brad,
That is mighty kind of you.
I'll measure them Weds when I get back up to 3R. Those dimensions seem right to me, but I'll check first. All that's missing is the rubber seal on the end with the big hole and a little hole for the retainer shaft.
I'll let you know for sure.

Is there any danger of the steel wool itself fuzzing off?
Well, I suppose so?
What I did was pack the steel wool pretty good in there and then shook the heck out of the filter by tapping it down on the table. Then I sprayed it with an oil that I have for some K & N filters I had. I was afraid I had packed it too tight, but apparently not. There is good air flow through it. After thinking about it, I might wrap it in a cloth cover? Just in case.

As a matter of fact, I think I will do that for sure.
I'll take it apart and wrap felt around the steel wool so the felt is inside the metal grate, but around the wool. Is there some other fabric material I should use instead? I want to make this filter washable so I can rinse it out with gasoline. I want to make two of them.
Rob-

[bradblazer]

Hi Rob,
If you can't salvage a seal some weatherstripping might work. The center bore of the open end is 2.5".

You can check the wash solvent with a magnet to see if it is shedding. Maybe even suck some air through the filter housing with a shop vac using a magnet in the line.

Fine mesh woven wire cloth might work for a washable wrap. McMaster has it.

Brad

[3RRL]

Brad,
I got a lot of negative feed back about my dismal plan.
I've decided to stick with the paper filters and re-route the breather after the filter. Thanks for the offer but I checked my filter size and it is Ø6" x 8-¾" long not including the ¼" thick rubber gasket which makes it nearly 9" long.
I ordered a new one from Chip and started working on the breather tube re-routing this afternoon. I'll post some photos when I'm finished with it. It will end up much like the system on Loretta's Jinma.
Thanks to all for steering me in the right direction.
Rob-

[bradblazer]

Too bad, I had 4 of them, 2 still in box.

I have 2 that are Ø6" x 8-7/16" with a 3.5" bore both ends. Mesh only on the inside, pleats are exposed on the outside. You would have to add the seal and a top plate. Let me know if you can use them.

Brad

[3RRL]

Mar 19, 2009 19:54:37 GMT -5 bradblazer said:

Too bad, I had 4 of them, 2 still in box.

I have 2 that are Ø6" x 8-7/16" with a 3.5" bore both ends. Mesh only on the inside, pleats are exposed on the outside. You would have to add the seal and a top plate. Let me know if you can use them.

Brad

Yes, I can use those. I can use the top plates from my scrapped filter(s).
Let me know if you need my address and phone, but I think you have it already though? Then send me those filters and I will send you a check for postage. That's what John and Ed did when I sent them their stuff. It' nice of you to do that Brad.
What the heck are you doing with all those different filters anyway?
Rob-

[3RRL]

Today I finished re-routing the breather into the air intake tube.
I also re-set the filter minder and changed the paper filter with a brand new one. I sucked on the filter minder to show it fully plugged.



The routing is not directly into the intake manifold but very close to it.
I had to make another bracket to hold the steel tube but it came out pretty good. I reduced the size of the tube just before the intake. I drilled a hole into the intake tube and welded a hose barb onto it. I ran a short length of hose from from there to connect it. When I got done, I ran the tractor for a couple hours and it ran fine.
Here are some photos of re-routed system.
Rob-

[bradblazer]

Rob,
Nice work on the re-route. I sent you another PM - I don't have a shipping address.

A few years ago I got a whole pallet of filters for $5. Obsolete stockroom parts.

Brad

[GuglioLS]

Hi Rob,

The new filter setup and crank vent routing appears to be more efficient than the steel wool. On my Jinma, the crank case vent going into the intake manifold is necked down to about an 1/8" hole, just large enough for the oil vapor to be sucked in, yet restrictive enough so the filter minder will still indicate filter clogging. How large a hole is at the end of the fitting reducers you used? Perhaps a plug at the end with a small diameter hole will ensure the intake is not trying to suck an excessive amount of combustion air from the crank? Maybe even a ball valve that could be adjusted to just the right restriction? Here is how I would set it up: Install a ball valve, close off, start the engine, remove the oil level dip stick, with the CC vent valve closed, smoke should come out the dip stick hole, start opening the valve, when the smoke starts going back into the dip stick hole you have found the correct restriction. In theory anyway.

Just my 2 cents


Larry


Larry

[3RRL]

Brad, thank you... PM on the way with information.
Be sure to include your return address please.

Larry, great idea about the valve for the system.
Right now there is about a .200 hole so it's a little larger than your .125 hole. That's necked waaay down form the kitchen sink tubes I used. ;D When I have time, I will mess with the valve set up.
I think it's a great idea Larry.
Rob-

[Rich Waugh]

"I sucked on the filter minder to show it fully plugged. "

I am NOT going to touch that one, no matter how tempted I might be! :-) :-) :-)

Rich

[3RRL]

Hey guys,
Today I received Brad's package.
I had already sent him an envelope and a thank you note before I got the package.
Upon opening it, not only did he send me the big air filters, but he also sent an EXAIR Adjustable Air Spot Cooler.
This is just perfect for because I can use it to spot cool when I machine things. I have always been a believer in using air when machining when coolent or oil is not needed. But this thing can cool down to -50°F!!! So it will prolong the life of all my drills and cutters. He included the flexible tube and several spout ends for different air spray patterns. He also sent a couple of rolls of adhesive rubber gaskets to take up the slack of the slightly smaller cartridge. Also several sheets of air filter material. So I am totally set to make these work.
Brad, thank you very much for that and the air filters !!!
Just like Christmas for me...
Rob-

[bradblazer]

Hey Rob,
Surprise! Glad you like the cooler. I thought I saw a reference somewhere to you air-cooling a machining operation.

I still have a couple of NIB complete setups that I'll probrbly sell on Ebay someday. I did sell a couple when I first got all of that junk - I think that more than paid for all of it.

They are pretty neat but they do use a lot of air. I included the alternate vortex generators - you probably want the smallest (15cfm) one installed. They are white plastic spool looking things in a baggie.
www.exair.com/en-US/Primary%20Navigation/Products/Vortex%20Tubes%20and%20Spot%20Cooling/Adjustable%20Spot%20Cooler/Pages/Adjustable%20Spot%20Cooler%20Home.aspx

Those filters look pretty close to the right size - I hope they are more durable (washable) than the stock ones.

I drew Jury Duty this week - I am Juror #5 in a Superior Court criminal case. They wrapped it up and we started deliberating today - hope we can finish tomorrow.

Brad