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Post by bradblazer on Jun 29, 2011 20:43:49 GMT -5
Sorry to hear it wasn't a simple fix.
Good luck with the repair and please keep posting your progress.
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Post by jimbo7238 on Aug 5, 2011 21:49:57 GMT -5
As of 3:00 PM today 8/5/11...Jimis a happy camper. My tractor [and I] went on a test drive and all is working. The problem was finally identified as the part was welded in the right place but was also welded to the transmission wall. My friend the welder chose not to use my guides so the rod would only hit the area that needed welding and he also welded to the inner wall. ....I finally saw the problem when I put a halogen worklight in the side and mashed my face down on to and into the top opening and had my glasses off.......and then I saw what had happened. So what to do....  ? I have an old Foredom Flexible grinder with a 36 inch shaft. I also had a small stone on shaft. I tried it and it worked....but then the shaft busted....I hadnt used it in years. I ordered a new one and bought some small Dremel Tool cone shaped stones. So a week later I was back at it. I have had so much other stuff going on that I hadnt been able to work on the project steady. Anyway I finally got it ground to a point where I could HIT the part on the outside of the tranny...[see previous pics] and it moved and let loose. I then tried moving it back and forth and saw how the gear engages etc. through the top "Hatch". Before trying it...I used a Sears MAgnet on a extension rod to pull as much slag et. as I could from the welding. I then pumped diesal fuel into the area I had been working to flush out metal and stone dust etc. Each time my pail filled up I would run a heavey magnet around it and pick up metal "dust" I was also straining with a fine cloth. After a bunch of flushes I was coming out clean to the eye and the magnet. The pump I used was one I use for fuel transfer. It cost me $20.00 at a place called Heartland and runs on 2 D batteries. IT will pump hydrulic fluid but it to slow. Works fine on gas and diesal fuel. Then I started closing up and reinstalling all the parts I took off. fender, floorplates, throttle stuff, brakes, etc.. I found rust in several places so I used a "rust converter" material I had used years ago on my old Ford 1700. I then repainted as needed. Spent 3 hours trying to get one set of 2 floorboard support bolts in ....ended up with only one and I said the heck with it. Had another problem with getting the tunnal metal on. One piece just didnt want to line up with the holes in the floor metal...so I ended up having to use a piece of oak and a prybar etc. to force the piece to aling. I got the small bolts in but something is still off. However I am probably the only one who will notice. Added all new fluids of course and cleaned most of the insides, HAve more to do as in pressure wash outside and underneath then touch up the dirty areas I hadnt been able to use the rust stuff on. Then I will grease all fittings and then attach loader and repair the bucket [my previous fix didnt work]. So thats about it. I have a problem deciding which project gets first priority as they are lined up for sure. I have been out of commision since 3/2/11.....But I learned a lot and I did it almost all by myself. I have also been told that the part in question has been changed twice since I got my tractor in 09. That says something to me. I still wish they would put a real manual together but ......So thank you that responded and I hope that in some small way I have helped someone else along the line that may see this post. I cant believe it is really a done deal. Those of you who work on your own stuff know I am feeling pretty good for sure. So long from Maine for now. Jim |
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Post by linus69 on Aug 6, 2011 6:28:41 GMT -5
Congratulations Jim, glad to hear you finally solved the mystery.
Paul
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Post by Rich Waugh on Aug 6, 2011 7:27:59 GMT -5
Good job on the diagnostics and cure, Jim! Having it all back together and running is going to be a dramatic change of affairs, eh? Probably take you a few weeks just to get used to the idea that you once again have a functioning tractor. (grin)
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Post by jimbo7238 on Aug 6, 2011 20:24:59 GMT -5
Hi PAul and Rich...yes it will take a bit to get used to the idea that IT WORKS. I will have a short relearn curve I think. I had it down pat before but will need to get up to speed....again. Need it to work the sawmill logs, and have a storm [lighting strike] pine to cut up and remove. Unfortunatly it isnt sawmill quality by any means. This whole thing was a learning experience for sure. I wasnt looking forward to taking it all apart with the cab and all. Now I dont have to. Take care and thanks for the good words. Tommy and Rich were helpful for sure....Jim
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? I have an old Foredom Flexible grinder with a 36 inch shaft. I also had a small stone on shaft. I tried it and it worked....but then the shaft busted....I hadnt used it in years. I ordered a new one and bought some small Dremel Tool cone shaped stones. So a week later I was back at it. I have had so much other stuff going on that I hadnt been able to work on the project steady. Anyway I finally got it ground to a point where I could HIT the part on the outside of the tranny...[see previous pics] and it moved and let loose. I then tried moving it back and forth and saw how the gear engages etc. through the top "Hatch". Before trying it...I used a Sears MAgnet on a extension rod to pull as much slag et. as I could from the welding. I then pumped diesal fuel into the area I had been working to flush out metal and stone dust etc. Each time my pail filled up I would run a heavey magnet around it and pick up metal "dust" I was also straining with a fine cloth. After a bunch of flushes I was coming out clean to the eye and the magnet. The pump I used was one I use for fuel transfer. It cost me $20.00 at a place called Heartland and runs on 2 D batteries. IT will pump hydrulic fluid but it to slow. Works fine on gas and diesal fuel. Then I started closing up and reinstalling all the parts I took off. fender, floorplates, throttle stuff, brakes, etc.. I found rust in several places so I used a "rust converter" material I had used years ago on my old Ford 1700. I then repainted as needed. Spent 3 hours trying to get one set of 2 floorboard support bolts in ....ended up with only one and I said the heck with it. Had another problem with getting the tunnal metal on. One piece just didnt want to line up with the holes in the floor metal...so I ended up having to use a piece of oak and a prybar etc. to force the piece to aling. I got the small bolts in but something is still off. However I am probably the only one who will notice. Added all new fluids of course and cleaned most of the insides, HAve more to do as in pressure wash outside and underneath then touch up the dirty areas I hadnt been able to use the rust stuff on. Then I will grease all fittings and then attach loader and repair the bucket [my previous fix didnt work]. So thats about it. I have a problem deciding which project gets first priority as they are lined up for sure. I have been out of commision since 3/2/11.....But I learned a lot and I did it almost all by myself. I have also been told that the part in question has been changed twice since I got my tractor in 09. That says something to me. I still wish they would put a real manual together but ......So thank you that responded and I hope that in some small way I have helped someone else along the line that may see this post. I cant believe it is really a done deal. Those of you who work on your own stuff know I am feeling pretty good for sure. So long from Maine for now. Jim
