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Post by loukno on Aug 21, 2012 17:23:27 GMT -5
Hi, Tangled with some brush, resulting in an uncoupled disconnect and dead headed pump. Pump shaft broke near the start of the splines, leaving the broken part in the driving part of the engine. I have used a magnet retrieval tool, and tried JB weld on the end of a small bolt- and so far have not been able to budge the broken end.I would appreciate any advice on how to retrieve the piece of broken shaft. [/URL]
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Post by Rich Waugh on Aug 21, 2012 18:22:42 GMT -5
You may have to resort to drilling and tapping it and using a draw bolt in it. JB isn't likely to stick well enough due to the presence of hydraulic oil on it and even a neodymium magnet probably won't be strong enough to pull it if it has deformed enough to get wedged in the slot of the drive gear. I've had some success in the past on things like this (oil pump bypasses, mostly) by sticking an arc welding rod in there and momentarily flicking the welder power on then off - on just long enough to freeze the rod end to the broken bit. Then pull it with a pair of pliers or a slide hammer.
Note of caution: If you're going to drill and tap it, don't use a tap size that is subject to breaking easily (like 6-32 or 1/4-20), and use a tap drill about two, or even three, numbers oversize from the tap chart recommendation. You don't need 75% thread engagement so why risk breaking a tap off in something where you only get one chance? I'd use a 10-32 or a 1/4-28; whatever will fit and is a strong tap configuration. I'd probably try the welding rod option first, though.
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Post by loukno on Aug 21, 2012 21:01:17 GMT -5
Thanks Rich, Thanks for your suggestions. I have a little problem getting the tractor near my welder. So I like the drill/tap suggestion, but I had been hesitant to drill because of the drill chips getting into the gears? Also, I wonder if removal of the steering pump will give access to punching out the broken piece. I can not tell from the Jinma manual what the configuration of the pump(s) drive looks like.
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Post by Rich Waugh on Aug 22, 2012 5:28:53 GMT -5
I've never pulled one of these pumps so I can't tel you about the configuration of the drive head, but I doubt if you can just pull the other pump and punch through. Tommy from Affordable Tractors can tell you, though. If he doesn't post an answer here, give him a call. He's a very helpful guy.
As for drill chips getting in the gears, you could use a shop vacuum to pull the chips away or a small neodymium magnet to hold them in place. I've also done this successfully in other cases by packing the area with grease leaving only the end of the shaft clear. The grease will trap the shavings so that you can carefully pull them all out.
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Post by affordable on Aug 22, 2012 13:54:50 GMT -5
You can remove the steering pump and drive out the broken part of the shaft. Tommy Affordable Tractor Sales "Your Jinma Parts Superstore" www.affordabletractorsalesco.com
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nuno
CTW Member
Posts: 26
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Post by nuno on Aug 23, 2012 3:54:26 GMT -5
i have had the same problem in the Beginning, broken Pumpshaft caused by defective QD. You can do it like Tommy say. In my case it was possible to pull it out with an pointed pliers and i doesn't need to remove the Steering Pump
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Post by loukno on Aug 28, 2012 15:58:42 GMT -5
After drilling a 7/32"hole in the broken shaft- about 3/16" deep, I proceed to break off the end of a 1/4 x 28 tap by not keeping aligned with the direction of the hole. Conclusion:only thing to do was remove the steering pump and drive the piece out- which I did successfully. I have a new pump on order from Tommy, due here in a few days. After seeing the broken shaft and tap, I found I could have easily retrieved the small piece of tap by using pointed pliers, and the only thing holding up the broken piece of shaft was crud on the spline, and a good "grab" with a tap or bolt could have pulled the piece out.
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Post by mrmikey on Aug 28, 2012 16:58:42 GMT -5
Glad you got it out. For future prevention of un-intended disconnects get a couple of gear clamps and put them behind the sleeve on the quick connect. It'll prevent the sleeve from pulling back.....Mike
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red
CTW Advanced Member
Posts: 306
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Post by red on Aug 31, 2012 22:49:05 GMT -5
Or you can take the QD's apart and take the ball out. This way if you get disconnected you get a leak instead of a dead-headed pump. I removed the balls out of mine and tywrapped the sleeve so it can't be disconnected until you remove the tywrap.
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