Jinma 354 PTO shaft engagement problem

[ghidleyy]

I have a Jinma 354 whose PTO driving shaft stopped spinning. The engagement level (down by right foot) no longer had any resistance to lifting it and no longer fully engaged the primary (driving) shaft. Removing the hydraulic box above the rear of the transmission area revealed two potential problems:  

1) the spline connecting sleeve (part 300.37.136) slid freely, when actuated by the external level ("release fork weldement", part  300.37.021) and thus engaged by the PTO fork head lump (part 300.37.139), but didn't slide far enough forward to  fully engage the splines in the driving PTO shaft. About 1/16th of an inch of the spline edge is worn down on the primary shaft. It is possible that similar wear is present on the splines inside of the spline connector sleeve ... but I can't confirm that until I remove it.

2) the  rear detente on the external lever does not allow the head lump to push the spline connector sleeve far enough forward to engage the primary shaft. I don't know if this detente plate ("locating plate, PTO shaft release lever", part 300.37.163) is adjustable yet (have not taken it off to look).

I do note that by pushing that external lever just a bit past the rear detent does drive the spline connector sleeve a bit more forward and it then enages the primary shaft ... so, if there is some wear inside that sleeve, it is very minimal.

Finally, I note that the primary shaft rear bearing protrudes about 1/16 of an inch out of the case into the rear chamber of the transmission, and that I can pull by hand on the exposed primary shaft there and it and the bearing will slide out another 3/8 of an inch further until about 1/4 inch of the bearing is visible (you can see this protrusion in the third picture). Not sure if this is a problem or not.

My questions are:

1) What is the best fix for this situation? Is there some adjustment possible to cause to the spline connector sleeve to slide a bit more forward?

2) If I need to remove and replace the spline connector sleeve, I assume I can slide the driving shaft to the rear of the chamber enough to remove/replace the spline connector sleeve ... or do I need to take of gears located at the rear of that shaft as well (to get the shaft to move far enough to the rear)?

Since day one, the PTO always made a grinding sound during initial engagement with the level. I know have read enough to know that I undoubtedly have to adjust my clutch correctly so the PTO stage engages as needed ... that will be my next task so that I don't further wear back the primary shaft spline.

Attached are relevant pictures.

thanks
greg

[ghidleyy]

I am now trying to partially remove the (driving, e.g. rear) pto shaft so that I can remove the old and very likley faulty spline connecting sleeve (part 300.37.136). I need to slide it to the rear a few inches to get the clearance needed to remove the sleeve. I have removed the cover plate on the rear of the transmission and can now access the end of the shaft, but it is fixed (it does not slide freely to the rear). Does anyone have advice on how to slide the shaft rearward? Do I need to remove the bearings around that shaft (rearward)? There are two bearings in the transmission housing that the shaft goes through and I am unsure how to get them out. I am ready to try some sort of pulley but wanted to check with this forum first, lest I break something inadvertently.

I will try to add two new pictures of the rear of the transmission and where the bear sits.

thanks
greg



 

[ghidleyy]

Problem Solved! ...

Got the rear bearing out, thanks to Ron at Ranch Hand Supply for his advice ...

The PTO driving shaft comes out ... straight out the rear.
Two ways to remove the shaft;
#1. A deep grove bearing puller to remove the bearing #1 6305 on the back end of PTO driving shaft.
#2. If you will look and the back end of the PTO driving shaft .... there is a threaded hole beside the
male slot. Thread in a bolt... with a pair of vice grips on the end of a slide hammer .... clamp on the end of the bolt.
Use caution not the break the bolt.

Method #2 worked for me, but only after I heated up the casing around that bearing to about 250C with an OE torch (rosebud tip).