Post by GuglioLS on Jan 28, 2008 22:14:19 GMT -5
Here is an alternator upgrade that's pretty easy to do. If you might be adding auxilliary lights or running a 120 volt inverter, you might conisder doing this.
First a little brackground as to why I chose to do this-
The OEM alternator on a Jinma 354 is rated at 14.5 amps @ 14 volts ~ 200 watts. That's not enough to run all the lights without the battery in a constant state of discharge. Let alone being able to install some accessory lights or an inverter for 120 volt power if needed.
Here is the OEM alternator -
And the new one - It fits perfectly:
I went to an alternator shop and had them install a 2-1/2" dia x 5/8" wide belt pulley on a Delco (GM) 12SI 100 amp 3 wire internal regulated alternator. The smaller diameter pulley is necessary to increase the RPM of the alternator, a diesel engine turns at a much lower RPM, however alternators need 2000-5000 RPM for maximum efficiency. After studying the schematic, I was able to figure out how to hook it up with little effort. The big concern was NOT burning up the existing wiring with the 100 amps available, or frying the 30 amp, amp meter. The solution was to wire the output of the alternator directly to the battery and not worry about trying to run all that "juice" through the OEM amp meter.
Basically the OEM alternator was removed the wires taped off. Then remove the OEM regulator at the fuse block. Install the new alternator then wire the output directly to the battery with 6 ga. wire (through the starter post). Run the +12 ignition wire for the alternator to a new starter switch (that I was wanting to install for over a year) Then run the alternator sense or feedback line to a hot line at the fuse block. The OEM Belt was just fine on the new smaller diameter pulley, I was able to tension it with a little room to account for future belt stretch.
Larry
First a little brackground as to why I chose to do this-
The OEM alternator on a Jinma 354 is rated at 14.5 amps @ 14 volts ~ 200 watts. That's not enough to run all the lights without the battery in a constant state of discharge. Let alone being able to install some accessory lights or an inverter for 120 volt power if needed.
Here is the OEM alternator -
And the new one - It fits perfectly:
I went to an alternator shop and had them install a 2-1/2" dia x 5/8" wide belt pulley on a Delco (GM) 12SI 100 amp 3 wire internal regulated alternator. The smaller diameter pulley is necessary to increase the RPM of the alternator, a diesel engine turns at a much lower RPM, however alternators need 2000-5000 RPM for maximum efficiency. After studying the schematic, I was able to figure out how to hook it up with little effort. The big concern was NOT burning up the existing wiring with the 100 amps available, or frying the 30 amp, amp meter. The solution was to wire the output of the alternator directly to the battery and not worry about trying to run all that "juice" through the OEM amp meter.
Basically the OEM alternator was removed the wires taped off. Then remove the OEM regulator at the fuse block. Install the new alternator then wire the output directly to the battery with 6 ga. wire (through the starter post). Run the +12 ignition wire for the alternator to a new starter switch (that I was wanting to install for over a year) Then run the alternator sense or feedback line to a hot line at the fuse block. The OEM Belt was just fine on the new smaller diameter pulley, I was able to tension it with a little room to account for future belt stretch.
Larry
I was curious how & what you did. 
