Koyker Loader Olfe Joystick Repair

[3RRL]

For those of you who have the Olfe joystick with control cables, is there a website that explains, preferably with photos, the easy way to replace a broken control cable? Also, when turning in the brass collars onto the valve, what is the proper way to set the spring pressure? I just got through replacing one but kind of went through a lot of donking around to get the new Delrin plastic ends onto the joystick trunnion pin (or capstan whatever they're called).

I ordered a new control cable from Koyker, which they sent out, but no instructions for assembly. They referred me to another person who told me how to set the tension ... sort of, but no advice regarding attaching the cables. You have to "lock" the joystick and then screw on the brass sleeves until they are "snug" but not too tight or the joystick will not be centered.
I think Olfe is Italian made.
Has anybody done this?
Are there pictures or instructions available?
Thanks,
Rob-

[bradblazer]

I searched a little and couldn't find anything. Your best bet may be to keep bugging Koyker for technical support.

All I've done to mine is replace the screw that anchors the control to the housing. The little flat head kept working loose so I replaced it with a 6mm SHCS (uses a bigger allen wrench) and washer and locktighted it. My boot was glued tight so I had to tear it to get access. Didn't strike me as friendly to work on. At least the screw hasn't worked loose since.

Did you get pictures oh King of Instructional Posts?


Brad

[3RRL]

Aug 24, 2008 22:03:13 GMT -5 bradblazer said:

I searched a little and couldn't find anything. Your best bet may be to keep bugging Koyker for technical support.

All I've done to mine is replace the screw that anchors the control to the housing. The little flat head kept working loose so I replaced it with a 6mm SHCS (uses a bigger allen wrench) and washer and locktighted it. My boot was glued tight so I had to tear it to get access. Didn't strike me as friendly to work on. At least the screw hasn't worked loose since.

Did you get pictures oh King of Instructional Posts?


Brad

Ha, king of instructional posts my ***. ;D
Since I struggled and had no clue, I purposely did not take any photos. And it's a good thing too because I did a lot of cussing...
Your assumption of NOT user friendly is correct.

What I did...
I know the little flathead socket screw and used a screw driver on the inside to hold it still while removing it. That allowed a little more movement of the trunnion posts to where I could at least get one cable end on. But getting both was the trick.

I had to remove that tiny retaining ring for the other trunnion post so that whole body could slide out of the brass housing ... the one where the screw screws into. When I pushed it back and tilted it down, I could slide the other control cable on that way. Both cables are alike and the plastic end comes in from the bottom with "stops" molded on so they can't go forward anymore like a lot of others that can come out of the housing for assembly. Anyway, then push the trunnion post back to home position while pushing up on the cable end and tilt the housing back to straight. Put that screw back in and now they are both captured... and replace the little retaining ring.

OOps, that's where I forgot to be sure the little spacer was back on there first. It had fallen off and I didn't notice it. So in taking it apart AGAIN, I busted the little retaining ring. Had to find a replacement. Of course I didn't have the EXACT one so I used what I had... a retaining "clip" which doesn't fit perfectly. But it was for the correct diameter post at least. BUT...in pushing that onto the groove, I got half of it in the groove in FRONT of the spacer ring and half of it BEHIND the spacer ring, which jacked it all up. I ended up removing the spacer ring and putting on a new retaining clip without the spacer.

Got it all back together and it works great. I adjusted the brass sleeves while the joystick was locked in the center. I adjusted them to when they were snug against the body, I added a half tun more for each. Then bolted the covers back onto the valve. Don't forget the two little skinny "O" rings there also. One (larger) goes around the brass sleeve to the valve side and the small one goes between the nut and the other end of the brass sleeve.

I also poured a little 90w oil down into the cables' sheath and they actually feel much smoother now. I also re-routed the cables so I have easy entry from the right side now. So I guess this is a photo-less instructional post after all?
Sorry about the no photos. I could take it apart agian to show you if you really want?
Rob-

[bradblazer]

OOps, that's where I forgot to be sure the little spacer was back on there first. It had fallen off and I didn't notice it. So in taking it apart AGAIN, I busted the little retaining ring. Had to find a replacement. Of course I didn't have the EXACT one so I used what I had... a retaining "clip" which doesn't fit perfectly. But it was for the correct diameter post at least. BUT...in pushing that onto the groove, I got half of it in the groove in FRONT of the spacer ring and half of it BEHIND the spacer ring, which jacked it all up. I ended up removing the spacer ring and putting on a new retaining clip without the spacer.
I know the feeling. Digging thru my gigantic pile of junk looking for something to replace the part I broke, lost, or don't like because it's a pos. The harder something is to put together, the more likely it is that I will forget some part.

Got it all back together and it works great.
That's the important part!

I know the little flathead socket screw and used a screw driver on the inside to hold it still while removing it.
I used a needle nose. There's not much to get a grip on.

Sorry about the no photos. I could take it apart agian to show you if you really want?
Yes, please. lol
Around here the proper response to that would be "Bless his heart."
Actually if i need to take mine apart I'll just print your description and I'm sure it will make perfect sense when the thing is in front of me.

[3RRL]

Yes, please. lol
Around here the proper response to that would be "Bless his heart."
Actually if i need to take mine apart I'll just print your description and I'm sure it will make perfect sense when the thing is in front of me.

pheew,
I was hoping you'd say that!
One thing I forgot is my rubber boot came off in one piece.
I put it back into the groove and used a long zip tie to keep it there. That works good.
Another thing I forgot to mention was once I had the joystick re-assembled and all connected to the valve, I went to put it back on the fender mount. Well, the joystick housing has holes all around it and I forgot which holes to use for the bolts that hold it. The control cables were marked with a green and blue collar, so I used a sharpie to mark the valve underneath to know where each one went.

Anyway, of course when I put the joystick in the fender mount,
LOL ... I had it rotated incorrectly (gee, what a surprise, why not?).
So moving the joystick to raise and lower the FEL made it dump and curl.
Easy fix, just rotate it in the mount 90° and then it was good to go.
So really, it makes no difference which cables you connect to the valve either. You can fix it by the joystick mount.
End of story...
Rob-

[quikduk]

Rob, your joystick is made by Cofle and yes, they are Italian.

www.cofle.it/

Their site only really links to automobile products but they do mfr. your joystick and cables. It would take a tel. call to probably order parts unless you can find them locally.

Re: the cable lubrication, I thought your cables had a teflon inner sleeve. If so, some good gun lubricant would be better than 90 wt. for lubrication IMHO.

Ken

[3RRL]

Thanks Ken,
Yeah, I browsed though most of their site and could not get to where I could be helped. Couldn't find what I wanted.
I used 90w because the cables move slowly, not fast. To be honest, I was thinking grease ... like they had packed full into the joystick housing, on the cable ends and down.
Rob-