Post by Rich Waugh on Jun 2, 2010 23:24:19 GMT -5
(Thought I should copy this over here so it could be found in searches more easily - rw)
I started this project as an adjunct to splitting my tractor to repair an oil leak. The leak was one that could possibly have been caused in part by the FEL stressing the bell housing joint, though I actually don't believe that had anything to do with it in this particular case. Still, a set of braces to reinforce the loader and share the load between the bell housing and the rear axles seemed like a good idea so I went ahead and did it.
This was originally posted under my thread about the oil leak (see "major tractor woes in paradise"), but it seemed to me that a separate thread would be better for later searches and such.
Okay, as promised, here are the pictures and drawings of the FEL rear axle braces I made for my 304 Jinma with the ZL30 loader. I started out with the towers removed for the split, so I had to put them back temporarily to take measurements.
Once the towers were back on I could get my measurements and generate some "plans" to work from. I drew these up in my antique cheapo CAD program and then printed out the mounting plate and gusset drawings to use as cutting patterns. I just pasted them on some 3/8" steel plate and cut them out with the vertical band saw. Actually, I drilled the 13/16" holes first, since I needed to clamp the plate to the drill press table to drill holes that size. The smaller holes were drilled after cutting.
My objective with the drawings was to end up with the braces parallel and square so they would be effective at transmitting the loading shocks to the rear axles without deflecting. I would have preferred to use 2x3 tube for the brace arms but I didn't have any in stock so I used 2x2 heavy-wall tubing. I'm sure it will be more than adequate to the task since the loading should all be in compression rather than deflection. If any of you want to do this to your own tractor, I'll be happy to send you the .pdf files of the drawings so you can print them for cutting patterns. I don't know if the .jpg's I made from them will print out at the correct size, but the .pdf's certainly do.
Here's the front tower mounting plates all welded in place. You'll notice that I sawed off the mounting plates for the back hoe subframe. I don't plan on ever getting one and they hang down and snag bush all the time. I did bevel the cut edges and saved the pieces so they could easily be re-attached is someone else ever wanted a frame-mount back hoe.
I didn't manage to get any pics of the rear mounting plates of the tractor, but you can see what they're like in place about as well. One key thing, if you decide to make some like this for your own tractor, is to make sure the rear mounting plates are offset forward from the leading edge of the ROPS plates they're welded to. There needs to be a minimum of 5/8" clearance between the rear of the loader brace mount plate and the front edge of the ROPS plate in order to provide room for the nuts and lock washers for both the ROPS and the loader braces. I almost blew this one - almost. :-)
I installed the front and rear mounting plates and bolted up the matching tube plates to them and then took measurements between them for the tubes. They turned out to be right on the money with my plans - a bit of pure luck there. Then I cut the 2x2 square tube pieces and put them in position and tack welded them. After that, I unbolted them and finished up the welding on the bench where it is easier. (I hate overhead welding!) At that time I also whacked the drop legs off the lower steps and welded them onto the brace tubes. They're about an inch and a half higher than they were originally, but they work just fine and are a lot more rigid than original. Once everything was welded I gave it all a coat of 95% zinc cold galvanizing primer and a finish coat of black alkyd enamel paint. Let it dry a few hours and bolt it all up. All that's left is to touch up the paint here and there and put the loader back on.
I know I'm going to feel a lot more comfortable using the loader with the braces in place. I don't really think the loader is what caused the oil leak that started all this, that was just sloppy assembly, but the braces can't hurt and might help. They look pretty macho, too. :-)
Rich
I started this project as an adjunct to splitting my tractor to repair an oil leak. The leak was one that could possibly have been caused in part by the FEL stressing the bell housing joint, though I actually don't believe that had anything to do with it in this particular case. Still, a set of braces to reinforce the loader and share the load between the bell housing and the rear axles seemed like a good idea so I went ahead and did it.
This was originally posted under my thread about the oil leak (see "major tractor woes in paradise"), but it seemed to me that a separate thread would be better for later searches and such.
Okay, as promised, here are the pictures and drawings of the FEL rear axle braces I made for my 304 Jinma with the ZL30 loader. I started out with the towers removed for the split, so I had to put them back temporarily to take measurements.
Once the towers were back on I could get my measurements and generate some "plans" to work from. I drew these up in my antique cheapo CAD program and then printed out the mounting plate and gusset drawings to use as cutting patterns. I just pasted them on some 3/8" steel plate and cut them out with the vertical band saw. Actually, I drilled the 13/16" holes first, since I needed to clamp the plate to the drill press table to drill holes that size. The smaller holes were drilled after cutting.
My objective with the drawings was to end up with the braces parallel and square so they would be effective at transmitting the loading shocks to the rear axles without deflecting. I would have preferred to use 2x3 tube for the brace arms but I didn't have any in stock so I used 2x2 heavy-wall tubing. I'm sure it will be more than adequate to the task since the loading should all be in compression rather than deflection. If any of you want to do this to your own tractor, I'll be happy to send you the .pdf files of the drawings so you can print them for cutting patterns. I don't know if the .jpg's I made from them will print out at the correct size, but the .pdf's certainly do.
Here's the front tower mounting plates all welded in place. You'll notice that I sawed off the mounting plates for the back hoe subframe. I don't plan on ever getting one and they hang down and snag bush all the time. I did bevel the cut edges and saved the pieces so they could easily be re-attached is someone else ever wanted a frame-mount back hoe.
I didn't manage to get any pics of the rear mounting plates of the tractor, but you can see what they're like in place about as well. One key thing, if you decide to make some like this for your own tractor, is to make sure the rear mounting plates are offset forward from the leading edge of the ROPS plates they're welded to. There needs to be a minimum of 5/8" clearance between the rear of the loader brace mount plate and the front edge of the ROPS plate in order to provide room for the nuts and lock washers for both the ROPS and the loader braces. I almost blew this one - almost. :-)
I installed the front and rear mounting plates and bolted up the matching tube plates to them and then took measurements between them for the tubes. They turned out to be right on the money with my plans - a bit of pure luck there. Then I cut the 2x2 square tube pieces and put them in position and tack welded them. After that, I unbolted them and finished up the welding on the bench where it is easier. (I hate overhead welding!) At that time I also whacked the drop legs off the lower steps and welded them onto the brace tubes. They're about an inch and a half higher than they were originally, but they work just fine and are a lot more rigid than original. Once everything was welded I gave it all a coat of 95% zinc cold galvanizing primer and a finish coat of black alkyd enamel paint. Let it dry a few hours and bolt it all up. All that's left is to touch up the paint here and there and put the loader back on.
I know I'm going to feel a lot more comfortable using the loader with the braces in place. I don't really think the loader is what caused the oil leak that started all this, that was just sloppy assembly, but the braces can't hurt and might help. They look pretty macho, too. :-)
Rich
