JINMA ELECTRICAL STUFF - WIRING ETC !

[mariner]

Hi Guys,

Thought I would make a post and try and pick your collective brains ;D

I have a Jinma 554 tractor and I have just started to have some electrical problems. Regulator is playing up so I have ordered a replacement. In the mean time I took the old regulator off the base it is plugged into and found one tab or pin had been arcing and was burnt. Looked at the base and the corresponding female part was also black and burnt. The recieving or female base connectors look to be too thin and possibley have fatigued and loosened up - hence the make/break connection and the arcing/burning.

For now I will try and tighten the connection by bending the female parts to tighten everything up. This will only be a temporary fix to give me time to put in another larger alternator alternator.

I ordered a 100amp Ford authorized rebuilt on E-bay for $40 and it is on it's way.

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALTERNATOR-REBUILT-DIESEL-100-AMP-Ford-F350-E350-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eabd4a22eQQitemZ200451334702QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The above link is what I bought. As far as I can see Googling the part, it is a single wire alternator with built in regulator. Is this correct - maybe one of you more experienced electrical guys could chime in on this.

Anyway, the alternator I have on my 1986 F250 (85 amp ?) I thought of putting on the tractor ( replaced two years ago) and the new 100 amp alternator on to the 1986 F250. I am pretty sure that both of these alternators are internally regulated.

So for the tractor I will need to do away with the "shitty" original regulator and wiring. Could someone point me in the right direction as to what I need to do to connect the replacement alternator to make everything work the way it is supposed to. The alternator has two screw connections and what looks like a ground (?) between them

On the Ebay posting the pictures show what looks to be three connections.The + or battery connect obviously goes to battery lead/post. The black lead ? Ground ?

Any help would be greatly appreciated - I hope you can make sense out of what I have written.

Thanks

mariner

[mrmikey]

I'm not positive about Ford alts but a two wire GM looks the same. You have to hook it up like you said , ground to ground and the larger bat wire to the battery.
You're going to loose your idiot light as you don't have the field terminal to hook up to.
Again talking about GM alts, you'll probably have to rev it up to get it to start charging since you don't have the field terminal.
I prefer a three wire alt personally as you can retain the idiot light and you don't have to rev it up to get it to start charging.
Saying that, I'm still procrastinating, never got mine installed yet, still to d**n cold....Mike

[mariner]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for your comments. I am prettys sure it is going to be straightforward electrically. Even with the alternator going straight to the battery, it would be a big improvement over what is already there (Jinma stuff). The OE alternator is 350 watts which is 25 amps only - the one I am getting is 100 amps - a huge difference.

By the way, I have checked the alternator output on my truck at engine idle speed of 750 - 800 RPM. At idle, the same alternator (but 85 amps instead of 100 amps) on my F250 charges at 14.5 volts. I don't think there will be a problem ever, of charging at idle speed. I think a lot of people get the engine RPM and alternator RPM mixed up.

For my needs there will definitely not be a problem providing I have it connected properly electrically.

Thanks for your comments - very much appreciated.

Cheers

Jim

[Rich Waugh]

Mariner,

You'll want to measure the crank pulley and alternator pulley to make sure you have an appropriate ration to spin the alternator at the speed necessary to get it to self-excite at or near idle on the Jinma. No big deal, just something to remember.

If your Jinma doesn't have a shunted=-type ammeter (mine doesn't), a simple expedient is to just add a voltmeter to check status on the alternator/battery system. That's what I did and never looked back. I used the Delco 10Si alternator but your Ford unit sounds similar.

There's a thread on here from Larry Gugliols about his alternator swap (Delco) that is worth reading. Should answer most of your questions.

Have fun with it!

Rich

[roy697]

I see that it is for a diesel, great, rpm should be close. Keep us informed. ( I sent a question to the seller about the wiring, maybe he has the answers for you )

[mrmikey]

The OE alternator is 350 watts which is 25 amps only

Stop braggin', mines only 15A LOL. Saying that I used my 204 for 4 hours last night plowing snow and I had my revolving light on all the time as well as 2 55W driving lights. When I was done and plugged my tender it it showed the battery was charged.

I have checked the alternator output on my truck at engine idle speed of 750 - 800 RPM

What I meant to say was to get it initially excited (thanks Rich),I figured it would charge once you got it going....Mike

[roy697]

Here is the reply from the Ebay site:

Dear roy697,

Hi Roy,
I checked with one of our mechanics and they do not recommend using this part on a tractor. Thanks, Frank

- u-techcenter

Sure would have been nice to know why, go figure.
Update: >:(I went back to Ebay & asked the question why, hope he has a reason.

[mrmikey]

I wonder if it's because of the low rpm compared to a gas engine, scared it's not going to generate enough juice. No biggie if that's the case you can use a smaller pulley....Mike

[mariner]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the feed back.

I doubt that the U-haul writer really understood what you were alludiing to !

As far as the RPM's not being enough - as Mike said, change pulley size. The charging voltage I got from checking my F250 (same alternator ) of 14.5 volts, was at fast idle. I don't have a tacho on the old Ford but I do know normal idle is around 650 - and it a little faster than that - I fiddled with the idle screw earlier and didn't take it back a touch . The truck engine is a 6.9 International diesel and performing well I might add (for now).

Normally my Jinma idles at around 700 rpm +/- 50 rpm, so assuming crankshaft pulley's and alternataor pully's are similar size, there shouldn't be much of a problem.

I am going to build a cab for my tractor - I have gotten tired of freezing my butt off and getting covered in snow when using the snow blower. So I decided to build a cab (see other thread looking for idea's) and expect by the time I am finished, will have quite a bit more electrical load to worry about. Looking at two windshield wipers - one at front, one at back, extra flood lights, couple of fans and maybe 12V heater too. So with this and utilizing an electric winch to turn the blower discharge chute (another idea picked up on another forum) instead of cranking by hand, the extra power will be handy and used of course.

There will be a bit of upgrading or new wiring to accomodate power needs. That will come as material becomes available.

I am looking forward to getting all the stuff together and actually doing the work. If all goes well, there should be huge improvements by next fall. It is funny how one idea starts another - and so on ;D ;D Not enough time to do them all

Anyway, thanks guys, for your input - every little helps and you think of things that I might not even consider.

Cheers

mariner

[harryg]

Just my 2 cents. I put a GM 10si on my Jinma back in 2004 and never had a problem.
Of course I had to bypass the ammeter and add a voltmeter.

[roy697]

I got part of a reply from u-techcenter.

Dear roy697,

Thanks for your note. It rotates clockwise and it does not have an internal regulator.

thanks, Frank

- u-techcenter

[mariner]

OOOOps !

Looks like I will need to install another regulator with this too .

I don't have the alternator yet - it was sent to a relatives place in the US and it will be coming up here (Canada) in a month or so. I would have sworn that it was the same as the Ford one I have now. Guess I am gonna learn a bit about auto alternators and regulators etc.

Oh well, I guess I have egg on my face for now - something new to learn all the time. I suspect you had a hunch Roy - thanks for passing it along. Still for $40, I think it is still a good buy (?)

Cheers

mariner

[roy697]

You did OK. Just need a regulator to add, might consider junk yard, don't have any idea what they run. On the up side when your done You can power all kinds of stuff. I have a 2000 watt Inverter that I plan to run so a BIG alternator is on my to do list in the spring when I go back to the farm in KY. Keep us updated.
Roy

[psj12]

Keep in mind that the alternator RPM at engine idle is determined by pulley ratio. If your ford truck has a larged crank pulley than the tractor then the alternator RPM at ide will be greater than the tractor alternator using a possibly smaller crank pulley.

One way to address this is to install a smaller diameter alternator pulley.

[roy697]

This would be a good time to have a tachometer that is point & shoot, a hand held type. That would give you the rpm with out the math and guess work. I bet it will work even if the tractor is turning slower, the alternator is for a diesel. ???Guess we will find out come spring time. Come on Spring time.