Fuel Line Rework

[GuglioLS]

My fuel line is cracked and leaking . It's the line that runs from the fuel bowl to the injector pump. It' been seeping for quite a while, so today I finally did something about it.

Here are some picks of that:



As you can see it's disintegrating pretty bad. The rubber is cracked, soft and swollen up. After shutting off the fuel petcock, I removed the line to fix this once and for all -

Larry

[GuglioLS]

I was not going to install a new OEM hose assembly that was just going to do the same thing. So I'm taking the ends off to replace the hose with virtually indestructible double braided Polyurethane hose.

After removing the fuel line, I took a $6 Harbor Freight 3" pneumatic cutoff wheel to the crimp clamps. It did not take much to remove those clamps and pull the fittings out of the hose -



There are barbed stems on the fitting ends, so replacing the hose should be a piece of cake.

Larry

[GuglioLS]

Now to cut and install the new hose onto the old barbed fittings -

The hose was cut about 2" longer than the original so as to route it a little better around the obstacles. I have some handy dandy stainless steel pinch clamps and end nippers to pinch the clamps closed. I prefer pinch clamps to screw type hose clamps as pinch clamps are more reliable and afford a superior seal, especially on small diameter hose.



Larry

[GuglioLS]

First pic on left is prior to crushing the clamp tab, second pic shows the pinched clamp which provides equal pressure around the circumference of the hose. This clamping technique is very reliable. Third pic is a completed hose end, fourth is the final assembly. Prior to re-assembly I removed and inspected the banjo bolt screen filter, this filter is located inside the banjo bolt thats attach's the fuel hose to the injector, it was clean. Final shot is the new and improved hose assembly installed. After doing this don't forget to pump the hand primer pump to purge air out of the fuel system.



OK it works, no leaks The double braided poly hose should last at least a hundred years.

Larry

[3RRL]

Another fine pictorial documentation of a repair made to look easy.
Great job Larry and thanks for sharing.

You know, as fast as some of the stock rubber parts wear, a guy might be better off just changing them right off the bat. It might save an untimely breakdown in the middle of a field during an important work day? Some of the rubber grease boots I got on the new tie rod ends I got were already cracked!
Rob-

[biggkidd]

Nice going Larry,

Another fine job. I wonder if Armor-all or something would help this cheap rubber on our machines. You have some fuel line there that will never need replacing again unless it gets cut or broken in an accident. Where do you get those clamps.

KIDD

[quikduk]

Very nice Larry. Another thing on my ever-growing 354 to-do list.

Where did you get the hose, clamps and pliers and what size hose did you use for the metric fittings?

Did you also use a new rubber/metal washer on the banjo bolt when you replaced it? I thought I saw it in one of the pics. If so, where do you get them from?

[GuglioLS]

Thanks for all the responses.

Rob -
You know, as fast as some of the stock rubber parts wear, a guy might be better off just changing them right off the bat. Good point worth considering. I've just about replaced every piece of rubber over the last couple of years.

some of the rubber grease boots I got on the new tie rod ends I got were already cracked! Yep mine too, Same as you - The rubber boots on the new tie rods I have as spares were shot when I bought them. All the tie rod boots that WERE on the tractor are now MIA, probably plowed under somewhere in the dirt on the new road.

KIDD-
I wonder if Armor-all or something would help this cheap rubber on our machines Good Idea but as crummy as this stuff is, I'm not sure if anything will help? maybe worth a try though? I think new poly hose is cheaper than armor-all and guaranteed to work just about forever. That poly hose is pretty bullet proof.

Ken-
Where did you get the hose, clamps and pliers and what size hose did you use for the metric fittings?

Hose and clamps I carry and use in my work. I've seen those pinch clamps at auto stores. I can get you the hose specs when I return from my road trip. The pliers are just simple end nippers from a local tool store, Harbor freight sells them in various sizes too.

Did you also use a new rubber/metal washer on the banjo bolt when you replaced it? I thought I saw it in one of the pics. If so, where do you get them from?

Dowty seals - (rubber coated washers) Can be had from any of the dealers. I got an assortment from Tommy a while back. Copper washers could be used as well, Harbor Freight sells an assortment kit of copper washers that might work. I was able to re-use the OEM ones, they are holding up OK.

Thanks guys -

Larry

EDIT - Update - the tubing is black PVC with an 8mm ID, the Stainless Steel hose crimp clamps are 12.3 mm OD.

[3RRL]

Dowty seals - (rubber coated washers) Can be had from any of the dealers. I got an assortment from Tommy a while back. Copper washers could be used as well, Harbor Freight sells an assortment kit of copper washers that might work. I was able to re-use the OEM ones, they are holding up OK.

Funny you should mention Dowty Seals. I had to "make" one at camp this weekend during my power steering pump repair. I'll post that adventure later. You can also get them here Stat-O Seals, Crush Washers, O Rings or at your local hydraulic store...even an industrial supply store.
Rob-

[GuglioLS]

Rob,
Thanks for the Dowty seal link.
Here is a link to get those Cinch / Pinch clamps:
www.hardwareandtools.com/icat/pexcrimptoolring/

Funny you should mention Dowty Seals. I had to "make" one at camp this weekend during my power steering pump repair. I'll post that adventure later Oh just great, I cant wait to read and see all about that.


Larry