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Post by scottkin on Oct 13, 2013 21:50:12 GMT -5
Ok, so I have had my "Smart Trac 354" (Jinma) for a little over a week now and have read all threads in the forum and don't believe I have found one that covers my problem I am having, specifically. However, I have confidence all you "old pros" with Jinmas can help me. My gauges were working initially normally and the tachometer and hour meter was working perfectly when I purchased the tractor. Mine is a 2006 model with the newer instrument "cluster" with all gauges part of a single unit screwed in the dash. So now my ammeter is the only gauge working. The headlights won't turn on and none of the other gauges will work, besides the ammeter. The tractor starts and runs just fine. I just have no idea how much fuel I have in the tank without looking. So, I have read everything on here so far and have narrowed it down in my mind to either a faulty or fried fuse block OR EVEN MORE LIKELY (maybe) a bad voltage regulator. Mine is the five-pin plug-in regulator. I have already disconnected and reconnected every wiring harness near the fuse block and the three that go to the gauge cluster, no luck. Every fuse checks out okay. Also, ground the paint off the main ground screw that mounts below the dash and forward of the gear shift levers, and remounted to make sure I didn't have a ground problem for the five or six wires that appear to connect together to ground the entire instrument cluster. Should I order a new fuse block or voltage regulator....or both? Or, does someone have a completely different recommendation altogether? Thank in advance for ANY help you can provide!!! Kindest regards, Scott
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biggkidd
CTW Expert
A World Away!!!
Posts: 226
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Post by biggkidd on Oct 14, 2013 6:22:53 GMT -5
A World Away!!!
2 miles from the grid and neighbors
South Central VA Since 2008
You say the ammeter is working. Does it show charging when you first start it up? Then slowly go back to 0 ? Check out the key switch and wires. I also have an 06 smarttrac. So let me think on it. It seems I had a problem way back when.
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Post by scottkin on Oct 14, 2013 10:08:14 GMT -5
Yes, ammeter is working. Yes, it seems to show normal charging from starting onward. It does NOT go slowly back to zero. I have initially looked at most of the wiring near the key switch, near the gauges, and under the hood near the fuse block. I have also unplugged all of those wiring connectors and plugged them back in, thinking I might have a bad connection. I realize I could STILL have a bad connection in one of those connectors and not realize it, but I am just trying to narrow it down to what could most logically be causing my "gremlins".
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biggkidd
CTW Expert
A World Away!!!
Posts: 226
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Post by biggkidd on Oct 18, 2013 19:41:32 GMT -5
A World Away!!!
2 miles from the grid and neighbors
South Central VA Since 2008
Make sure the connectors are tight in the plugs I have had them in but not actually making connection. Check both sides of the plugs with a test light. The ammeter should zero out when all accessories are off after a couple minutes. If its not you have a short or bad battery. To check if its the battery disconnect the neg. cable while its running and check the gage.
Luck
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Post by Rich Waugh on Oct 19, 2013 11:26:38 GMT -5
These Jinmas are a bit notorious for having issues with the voltage regulators. Mine would get loose in the socket and all the gauges would crash along with most of the lighting. A bit of fiddling and all would be good again for a while. I finally replaced the alternator with a Delco 12Si with integral regulator and haven't had any problems since, plus I now have 65 amps available to run lights and inverter, etc.
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Post by scottkin on Oct 28, 2013 20:14:12 GMT -5
I traced all wires involved back to the fuse block and discovered that the fuse block had had a meltdown on the underside below the fuses. All gauges and headlights are now working perfectly after replacing the fuse block and it's associated wiring harnesses. Now, I am a happy camper! Thanks to all for your gracious help!
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Post by Rich Waugh on Oct 28, 2013 22:49:51 GMT -5
Thanks for the update on your issue! Glad you got it all worked out.I recommend that these Chinese tractor electrics be updated/modified by adding relays on all circuits where high loads are involved, like headlights, starter solenoid, auxiliary lighting, etc. !2v relays are cheap and they sure do save the switches and other marginal parts of the wiring.
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Post by scottkin on Oct 29, 2013 13:30:29 GMT -5
Hi Rich, thanks for the advice. If I am understanding you correctly, what you are saying is a good idea. The way I see it, it would put only a small amount of current flowing through the switches on the control side of the relay, while the higher amperage contacts on the relay would be handling the real work, instead of the switches. I'll mull over the best way to do that - it sounds like a good winter time project while I won't be needing the tractor as often. Again, thanks.
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biggkidd
CTW Expert
A World Away!!!
Posts: 226
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Post by biggkidd on Oct 31, 2013 8:10:45 GMT -5
A World Away!!!
2 miles from the grid and neighbors
South Central VA Since 2008
Glad you were able to get it fixed.
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