Snow PLow Mod - Loader Adapter

[Dave]

Its been awhile since I first had this mod on here but after a few changes, I finally got to test my plow mod with some great advise from many. I adjusted my loader adapter

Old

OLDNEW

NEW



You can see I moved the part where the plow bracket attaches back about 1.5' to improve the balance. I also beefed up where that bracket attaches. Something I wanted on this adapter was to be able to have multiple uses, so added a 2" receiver on top for any other 2" hitch attachements. With this ,it also gave me a spot to hook the chain for the plow to further support and balance the weight. (this is an older 8' steel plow-very heavy duty). The welding is not great as I was doing it in not the best conditions but wanted to get it done.

I was very happy with the results



With Plow Attached



I adjusted the skid shoes so the plow edge was at max height until a good base on the road was set and then I could lower to a better height. Soon I will get the hydraulics for the angle set and get a better paint job and then it will be all set. I was by myelf so I couldn't get any action videos. Maybe next time.

Almost forgot one more video



Dave

[quikduk]

Dave,

Great job on the snow plow mod. ;D


I could have used one...or even a rear blade when we had between 3-6 feet around Christmas. I worked for hours with my loader and box blade to clear my driveways, my neighbors, our street...and then I remembered that my FIL has a manual rear blade that I could have borrowed to windrow the snow rather than all the back and forth stuff.

Is the quick attach from Town & Sunny? I had thought about making a skid steer compatible QA for my bucket but the only thing I could use here would be a blade/plow and I can always get a 3-point mounted model since I use my bucket and 3RRL/Guglio custom grapple more often.

How much snow do you get in Ajax, Ontario throughout the year?

Ken

[GuglioLS]

Nice setup Dave. I have often wondered how well a FEL snow plow worked. For some reason I thought it would be hard to steer or at the very least not be able to go in the direction you wanted because of the huge about of leverage pushing the front end all over the place, especially when the blade was angled into deep snow. I suppose that's not the case? Looks like a great setup that works for you.

Larry

[Dave]

Thanks

Ken,

The quick attach is part of the Townsunny loader. It appears similar to a JD type(copy) as any attachments hook on the top bar and then attach on the bottom with 2 pins. The JD does not though extend the bar right across.It is very simple and easy to use. What I like as the pic shows is that the top 1" bar goes right across the top of the loader frame making it easy to make things to match (you don't have to have the exact width on the top) You can hang things off the top bar and have them braced on a bottom piece. Although the pins at the bottom have to be right on. I plan on making some simple forks that can just hook on the top and then put a cross piece across the bottom where the forks would rest to take the weight. Of course you can't overload the top bar unless you put your brackets exactly where the loader arms come down (the way the bucket attaches)



As far as snow, like many places the past few winters have seen a lot of snow. I use this at the cottage (future retirement) where there is a little more snow (about 2 hrs. NE of Toronto)

Larry,

I was a liitle apprehensive at first but it worked very well. Once the blade sits on the shoes it good. The main worry was when lifting the blade to get around and being careful not to 'bounce' it in air putting extra stress on everything. Of course you can't go pushing 2' of snow all at one time. Once you get a base down where the shoes slide nice you don't have to be as careful. The loader valve has float so yo can set it there without too much concern. I was using it without angle control and it worked well. I could have manuly set a position left or right but I want to hook up the hydraulics for the angle for next year. That is where I need a little advise from any good ideas. I have to double check if my loader valve has power beyond and if it is feasable to simply tap in off the valve to another valve to control the left/right angle (2 single acting cylinders). I was thinking of extending permanent lines to the loader frame bucket area with quick connects so I could also use for other things such as a grapple (1 double acting cylinder) Does this make sence?. More simple but a little more messy (long hoses) is coming off one set of the rear remotes and controlling it that way.


Any and all ideas welcome!

Dave

[3RRL]

Very cool set up Dave,
BTW, the DF looks great in that Hunter Green paint job.
The attachment up front has to be very handy so you can actually "see" what you are plowing. Making it hydraulically controlled is easy to do. Many of us have installed a true third function solenoid valve for up front hydraulics. Even if your loader valve does not have Power Beyond, you could run that solenoid valve off of it since the solenoid valve does not have power beyond either. You can look at Loretta's thread about My Very Own Grapples for all the components you need. It's fairly inexpensive and pretty easy to install and you would have hydraulics up front for your plow and everything else.
Nice job...
Rob-

[Dave]

Thanks Rob,

I looked at that awhile ago but will have to take a good detailed look at it again.

Dave

Just to add Townsunny sent me both manuals for the FEL and my BH. I am impressed with the TS equipment. Seems to be a good alternative to the cheaper Chinees equipment and the more expensive others. The quote is from the FEL manual which confirms the power beyond and float and the use of a remote joystick such as what you installed on your Jinma. Its seems exactly as you did yours. When I get to this I will probably bend your ear a little.

The Allied Remote Hydraulic Control is equipped with a momentary push button switch and a lock. The push button is for operating a third function when an electric diverter is installed. The third function is normally for operating a grapple. When the button is depressed the valve ports are open to the grapple cylinders. Shifting the joystick to the left while button is depressed will close the grapple and shifting to the right will open.
IMPORTANT: Always feather the grapple when closing or opening to avoid unnecessary shock loads on grapple components.

All hydraulic valves are self-centering and return to neutral from all positions except float. The float or detent spool is only to be used on the boom circuit. This position allows the oil to freely flow through the valve so the lift cylinders can extend or retract. It can be engaged by slightly pushing control beyond full lower. Float will allow for the loader to lower and rise as the attachment follows the ground contours. To disengage float, slightly pull control back towards the neutral position. The Allied Remote Hydraulic Control can be locked in the neutral position to minimize unintentional movement.

A third function hydraulic control is available for grapple or other hydraulic applications. An optional divertor valve is connected to the loader attachment spool and is operated via the Allied Remote Hydraulic Control momentary switch and simultaneously engaging the bucket spool through dump or rollback.