Brush Hog

[roy697]

I was wondering if anyone replaced the top link with chain. Looking for options. When going through some of the rough areas I seem to push the top link HARD when the tractor starts to climb out of eroded area or ditch.
Thanks

[Rich Waugh]

My bush hog has a toggle link where the top link attaches to it so it has about 8" of free play. No problems climbing embankments or coming down them, either.

The toggle link is just a piece of 3/8" x 2" flat bar bent into a "U" shape with holes in the ends of the legs for the cross pin of the top link and holes about 4" further back for the pivot pin on the bush hog. If yours doesn't have one it would be easy enough to make one, I would say.

Rich

[roy697]

I do have one. It just looks like a need a little more free play. Thinking about a shorter top link as an option.

[Rich Waugh]

Roy,

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I did modify my bush hog to give it more clearance like you're talking about.

What I did was to make a new pair of brace arms for the top link attachment point - the long flat bar arms that go from the top link point back and down to the deck at the rear. Mine were just 1/4" x 2" flat bar, which I always have in the shop, so I just made a couple of quick bends and drilled four holes and was done. I made them about 2-1/2" shorter than the OEM ones. That tipped the top link point back about three or four inches and now the mower can pull up a lot further before it runs into my carrier rack, and the toggle link seems to allow more freedom of movement on dips and rises, too.

I was gonna take a picture to show you but my camera seems to have a defective battery - no charge after I charged it just a day or two ago and haven't use d it. Drat - time to order a new battery.

Rich

[roy697]

Pictures would be great. The idea of drilling new holes in my existing braces would be something that I can do, I have those resources at the property. Doing everything in a open field is not easy. Generator & drill I have. I don't have any large drill bits but I guess I could shop for one once I know what size I need. I like it & that will be my plan the next time I am there.
Thanks

Here is a picture of what I think would work, just re-drill the hole & push the bracket back a little & re-bolt. (any one see a problem with the geometry)

[Rich Waugh]

That would work fine, Roy. Take along a hacksaw so you can whack off the excess strap when you're done - that way you won't be whacking you arm on it. What you're talking about doing is essentially what I did, only I was nervous about the idea before I did it so i decided to make replacement arms in case it didn't work out. :-)

Those straps have about a 10 degree kink at each end, but you can probably achieve that just by tightening the bolt in the new hole if the bolt is long enough. If not, whack it with a hammer - it ain't exactly a Swiss watch, after all. I think the holes in mine were 5/8" or so. Not something you'd enjoy doing with a hand drill, but it can be done if you have a fairly low-speed 1/2" drill and a set of S&D bits with cut-down 1/2" shanks. Alternately, a 1/2" bit and a reamer will get the job done just as well, or even a file. Yours *may* have smaller bolt holes than mine, since mine is a slightly heavier-duty model than yours appears.

Have fun!

Rich

[jeep]

can you put new wholes at the bottom end that way you may not have to cut them off. jeep

[Rich Waugh]

On mine, they would have run into the deck if I left the excess at the bottom. I agree that it would be nice not to have to cut it off so you could revert to the original spacing if you wanted, though.

Rich

[roy697]

I don't have the bigger drill bits but I do have what I call a step drill set that should work. I don't know how much clearance I will have so I will play it by ear. The fact that my top link seems a bit on the long side & Rich has done this I plan to go ahead with this the next time I go down their.
Thanks a lot everyone.

[jeep]

Rich would it work if he drilled holes in the straps on the bottem at the back of the mower would that move the top back some, where it bolts back there, maybe I'm sying it wrong. Jeep

[Rich Waugh]

It doesn't matter which end of the struts you shorten up, the end result is the same. The top point tips back. Given the relationships of the pieces involved, I don' t think there's any way to shorten the strut 2 or 2-1/2 inches without having to cut off the excess so it isn't in the way.

Rich

[roy697]

I will take a grinder with cutoff wheels to take care of what needs cut off. The only other option I see is buying a shorter top link. (I just know I will lose one of them if it is not attached to something)
I am guessing that the metal is just soft or mild steel, should be easy enough to drill in the field. (center punch & a pilot bit to keep me from wandering)

[Rich Waugh]

Yep, mine was just plain A-36 structural mild steel, nothing fancy. The cutoff wheel in the grinder will whiz right through it. The step drill will take a bit more patience but I'm sure it will do the job.

Rich

[jeep]

::)Ok I got you Rich I looked at mind today I see what you say now "daa"got crs now dam! Jeep

[Rich Waugh]

You and me both, buddy.

Rich