|
|
Post by torgysbuick on Mar 18, 2008 23:06:53 GMT -5
I've often heard of rear remote hydraulics, and take from the name and what I've gathered that it's some kind of hydraulic control for rear implements. Beyond that, I'm lost. Can all the people in the know let me in? Do I need them? What are 1/2 remotes?
|
|
|
|
Post by Ronmar on Mar 18, 2008 23:49:23 GMT -5
Well I'll take a run at it.
Rear remotes are like you surmised, hydraulic outlets for powering hydraulic devices on the rear of the tractor. Some different forms I have seen are:
1. 2 EA(or 4 EA) quick connects that come from the working ports of a installed hydraulic control valve on the tractor. To these all you do is connect up the hoses to the cylinder/motor and control the device using the controls on the installed valve.
2. A hydraulic supply and return line connected together with quick connects. This line connection is placed in line between existing valves, much like the loader control valve is usually in between the pump and 3PH control valve. Like the loader, if it is removed from the tractor, the lines must be connected together to maintain flow. To use this setup, an open center valve must be connected between the lines to control any devices. This is also usually the last valve in line so no power beyond valve can be installed as it requires an additional return path.
3. Supply and return ports controlled by a valve on the tractor. To this an open center valve can be connected to control devices, but the lines do not have to be connected together when not used as they are shutoff/bypass and have a relief valve upstream to protect the system.
A half remote is a single port that can control a single acting cylinder such as on a dump trailer. When connected to such a cylinder, opening the valve sends pressure to the cylinder. Returning the valve to neutral connects that port back to the reservoir and gravity lowers/retracts the cylinder.
The 3PH on a tractor is a half remote/single acting cylinder, pressure up, gravity down with only one line to/from the cylinder.
On the 200 series Jinma with the half remote, the pressure supplied to the half remote is the same applied to the 3PH and it uses the 3PH control valve for control. You close the speed reg valve to force the pressure to go only to the 1/2 remote Quick connect on the back. If you provide a return port, and some Jinmas do this from the factory, it can be used with an open center valve like in #3 above, except that you cannot use the 3PH while using this as the fluid can only go to one at a time.
Clear as mud?
|
|
3RRL
Administrator 
Huge Kama
Posts: 2,027 
|
Post by 3RRL on Mar 19, 2008 0:01:50 GMT -5
I've often heard of rear remote hydraulics, and take from the name and what I've gathered that it's some kind of hydraulic control for rear implements. Beyond that, I'm lost. Can all the people in the know let me in? Do I need them? What are 1/2 remotes? Torgy, Yes, rear remotes are used to run hydraulic implements, like you figured. They come in sets to power double acting cylinders, ones you can push out and also suck back in. They can also be used to power a hydraulic top link cylinder or hydraulic side link cylinders to position your implement or tilt it. A 1/2 remote is also used to power a hydraulic cylinder, but it is for a single acting cylinder such as you would find on a dump trailer or even some log splitters. It pushes out but the weight of the trailer pushes it back home. It does not suck back home like a double acting cylinder. The rear remotes usually have quick connect fittings on them. They are on a bulk head bracket. The QC's will have hoses running to the valve that controls them. The implement(s) will have QC's too, so you can plug them in. You can have one or multiple sets of rear remotes, depending on the number you need to run your implements etc. Here is a photo of my rear remotes and the valve that runs them.   I have 3 sets of rear remotes, one set for the hydraulic top link. When I use my boxblade, I use the the other two sets to run the hydraulic scarifiers and the hydraulic leveling wheels I made. Do you need them?... That depends. If you want the luxury and ease of moving your top link and side links hydraulically, then by all means. It make hooking up implements 10x easier. You can also adjust the top link and side links on the fly such as when boxblading. However, they are not necessarry unless you have an implement that requires hydraulics to power it or for one or more of it's functions. Then you would need them for sure. Rob- |
|
|
|
Post by tjcarothers on Mar 19, 2008 10:36:04 GMT -5
Rob, I always feel like I'm in the dentist office when I look at your remotes, ya' know, all the litlle air ports that he hooks up his drills to!!!! That is such a clean install job. Very impressive. TJ.
|
|
|
|
Post by linus69 on Mar 19, 2008 14:23:43 GMT -5
On the 200 series Jinma with the half remote, the pressure supplied to the half remote is the same applied to the 3PH and it uses the 3PH control valve for control. You close the speed reg valve to force the pressure to go only to the 1/2 remote Quick connect on the back.
On my 03 Jinma 284 the speed regulator knob throttles the flow of hydraulic fluid, it doesn`t seperate the flow from the 3PH to the 1/2 remote. They both recieve fluid together no matter what you do.
Paul
|
|
|
|
Post by Ronmar on Mar 19, 2008 18:27:47 GMT -5
On the 200 series Jinma with the half remote, the pressure supplied to the half remote is the same applied to the 3PH and it uses the 3PH control valve for control. You close the speed reg valve to force the pressure to go only to the 1/2 remote Quick connect on the back. On my 03 Jinma 284 the speed regulator knob throttles the flow of hydraulic fluid, it doesn`t seperate the flow from the 3PH to the 1/2 remote. They both recieve fluid together no matter what you do. Paul Paul If you screw the speed reg valve all the way in/fully clockwise, it should seat and close off the flow to the 3PH cylinder, locking it in it's current position. That will force all the fluid to the rear QC. If your's won't do that, there may be something wrong with your speed reg valve. Mine consists of a moveable cone tip pinned to the end of the threaded handle portion. Fully seated, the tip acts like a valve. slightly open, the cone acts like a check valve and only lets fluid pass into the 3PH cylinder, but it won't let any come out. Open a bit farther, it allows full speed 3PH raising, then the moveable tip drops down to it's full length to slow the flow of fluid leaving the 3PH cylinder. Here is a hydraulic diagram of my 284, I drew a few years ago if anyone is interested.  |
|
|
|
Post by torgysbuick on Mar 19, 2008 21:57:41 GMT -5
Believe it or not, that hydraulic diagram is perhaps the most useful thing I've seen yet. I was wondering how those hydraulic quick connects on the back of the tractor got pressure! At least, I'm assuming it's the same....
The rear hydraulic lines I have are hard lines that exit the reservoir tank sides, near the back, one on left and one on right. the valve handle for the 3pt also just 'disappears' into the reservoir. Same thing?
|
|
|
|
Post by tjcarothers on Mar 20, 2008 9:06:39 GMT -5
Hey Rob, where are the controls for the top and side link cylinders?
TJ.
|
|
quikduk
CTW Life Member
Dog House
Posts: 552
|
Post by quikduk on Mar 20, 2008 9:46:48 GMT -5
TJ: Rob's T&T controls are on the RIGHT  side of his seat. He has two factory spools that he is using for this. His Prince three spool valve on the left fender runs his gear-driven rippers on his BB (Rob, I still think those things are bitchin!) or for his hydraulic gauge wheels and then he has two spares. Torgy: The hard lines are for the half remotes. If your 3-point lever "disappears" into the tank, maybe you are referring to the valve. On the 354's, the 3-point valve bolts to the side of the reservoir but on the smaller ones it might be different. Everything else said is right-on the money. I used my half-remote return line for my return to sump from my T&T three spool valve. |
|
|
|
Post by torgysbuick on Mar 20, 2008 12:10:23 GMT -5
yes QD, you're right. It does attach to a valve external to the reservoir. My memory failed me last night, even though I've spent the better part of three days staring at this tractor scratching my head. Thanks!
|
|
3RRL
Administrator
Huge Kama
Posts: 2,027
|
Post by 3RRL on Mar 20, 2008 15:36:24 GMT -5
TJ, Ken answered for me, except he didn't get it quite right. My Kama came with 2 sets of rear remotes. I used that 2 spool valve for the side tilt cylinders. One for the right and one for the left. Those 3 sets of remotes you see come from the new Prince 3 spool valve. (BTW, the Prince valve is on the right rear fender.) I use one for the hydraulic top link all the time except when I have my backhoe on. The other two are for the hydraulic scarifiers on my boxblade and the hydraulic gauge wheels I made. So when I use the boxblade with the gauge wheels on, all my remotes are full. Without the gauge wheels on the boxblade, I use two sets (top link and scarifiers) and have one set open. When I use the rotary cutter, I use 2 sets (top link and hydraulic gauge wheels) and one set open. My hydraulic gauge wheels are quick attach and can be used as gauge wheels on the boxblade and wheels for the rotary cutter. I'm planning to make them attach to the landscape rake too. I don't know if they will be useful on it or not, but I'm gonna do it anyway.  Rob |
|
quikduk
CTW Life Member
Dog House
Posts: 552
|
Post by quikduk on Mar 20, 2008 18:25:11 GMT -5
Thanks Rob. I fixed my left-right mistake. Sorry, I was looking at it in my mind's rear view mirror and thanks for your operation clarification. I couldn't remember how your sequence was set up. ;D  |
|
|
|
Post by Ronmar on Mar 20, 2008 19:06:13 GMT -5
Believe it or not, that hydraulic diagram is perhaps the most useful thing I've seen yet. I was wondering how those hydraulic quick connects on the back of the tractor got pressure! At least, I'm assuming it's the same.... The rear hydraulic lines I have are hard lines that exit the reservoir tank sides, near the back, one on left and one on right. the valve handle for the 3pt also just 'disappears' into the reservoir. Same thing? TJ, What kind of tractor do you have? If it is a 200 series Jinma, then it is the same thing. Just screw the 3PH speed reg valve in front of the seat fully clockwise/closed. When you try and lift the 3PH, the 3PH arms won't move and all the flow will try and head for that right hand QC, untill the relief valve in the 3PH control valve opens. If you have the hard line to QC on the left also, it sounds like you have the factory return line back to the resovoir. If you have a pressure gauge and a QC, it is a good idea to check the pressure that the safety in the 3PH control valve relieves at. Just put a gauge on a QC and plug it into that right QC and send some pressure back there. Mine was initially set way over 3000 PSI(hard pegged a 3000 PSI gauge). If you start bouncing a heavy impliment around and it is set too high, you could break something. I blew out the "O" rings on my loader valve upstream... Ron |
|
side of his seat. He has two factory spools that he is using for this. His Prince three spool valve on the left fender runs his gear-driven rippers on his BB (Rob, I still think those things are bitchin!) or for his hydraulic gauge wheels and then he has two spares.
