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Post by bracabric on Jul 27, 2012 10:13:19 GMT -5
Take away their Coffee break in China the biggest Tea producer in the world ? don't think anyone would notice. Stop them eating pork for a month, now were talking ! Wish you all luck with the re assembly, you've got me wondering what's wrong with things I can't see on my Jinma now Paranoid Dick
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Post by Rich Waugh on Jul 28, 2012 0:33:48 GMT -5
I definitely recommend being on the lookout for oil drips from the sump area, Dick - that's the symptom that caught my eye and required the splitting of the tractor to cure. Left un-checked that could have destroyed the tractor. Most everything else is not so serious and much less involved to fix, so routine care and maintenance wil catch them most of the time.
These Jinmas are really robust little machines when they're assembled right. Stay on top of the little things and they'll give you great service and terrific economy. Let stuff pile up and they'll cause you headaches sooner or later. Just like any machinery that is subjected to rough service. Even with the defective assembly on mine, I love my Jinma and wouldn't trade it for anything else. I love the simplicity of the machine and its a real workhorse.
Paranoia is appropriate when they really are out to get you!
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Post by bracabric on Jul 28, 2012 11:49:13 GMT -5
Chuckle, chuckle. I'm very fond of my 354 as well
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Post by stumppuller on Aug 10, 2012 20:28:25 GMT -5
Ok, with the help of my son we got the tractor together with little difficulty. While we were sliding it together my son asked: "do you think we need to put the front wheel drive shaft in at the same time?" Me: Naw, it's designed so that it can be removed and installed without the tractor being split" I'm thinking that the spring loaded spline will take care of that. Right? Well guess what........it doesn't seem to work that way. Why not? What am I missing? Any ideas to help me save face with my son? (as well as get this thing running)
Bruce
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Post by Rich Waugh on Aug 10, 2012 23:12:02 GMT -5
It will go in, you just have to fight with it a bit. It helps to wiggle the front end around and you may have to work from the opposite end to finally get it to go in, bu tI know it will because I got mine back in after the tractor was put together. If all else fails, call Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales and get his advice - he's done it hundreds of times.
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Post by quicksandfarmer on Aug 11, 2012 22:53:43 GMT -5
Ok, with the help of my son we got the tractor together with little difficulty. While we were sliding it together my son asked: "do you think we need to put the front wheel drive shaft in at the same time?" Me: Naw, it's designed so that it can be removed and installed without the tractor being split" I'm thinking that the spring loaded spline will take care of that. Right? Well guess what........it doesn't seem to work that way. Why not? What am I missing? Any ideas to help me save face with my son? (as well as get this thing running) Bruce I've put mine on and taken it off twice this week (long story) and it definitely can be done with the transmission in place. It sounds like it just came off when you split the tractor. Did you loosen the hose clamps and telescope the housing? The way I do it is to put the front in first and then squeeze the back. It compresses just barely enough, but it does fit. Make sure the front is in as far as it can go. I find it is easier to get the shaft in place and then put the balls in. With the shaft in place you only have to slide it about halfway out to slip a ball in. As you put put each ball in fill the slot with a dollop of grease, which will hold that ball in place as you do the other ones.
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Post by stumppuller on Aug 16, 2012 0:57:14 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice. For some reason it went together without a struggle this last time I tried it. I did notice that the splines had pocketed out a little bit where the balls reside. This seems to be a weak design area in my opinion - not much surface area available for transmitting a lot of torque to the front axle. I wonder what other brands use for this job?
Bruce
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Post by stumppuller on Aug 16, 2012 0:59:54 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice. For some reason it went together without a struggle this last time I tried it. I did notice that the splines had pocketed out a little bit where the balls reside. This seems to be a weak design area in my opinion - not much surface area available for transmitting a lot of torque to the front axle. I wonder what other brands use for this job?
Bruce
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Post by Rich Waugh on Aug 16, 2012 1:02:19 GMT -5
I don't know what other brands use, but one of our contributors here, Rob (3RRL) replaced his balls [okay the balls in his coupler :-)] with short lengths of metric drill rod to increase the contact area. Seems like a great idea to me.
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Post by stumppuller on Aug 16, 2012 17:26:56 GMT -5
I can think of a few reasons why it wouldn't be a good idea, but given that the ball system shows significant wear in a relatively short time it probably wouldn't be any worse using SHORT rollers. Sufficiant slop in the fits here would be crucial to it working. I wonder what they (Jinma)have against using proper U joints?
Bruce
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Post by Rich Waugh on Aug 17, 2012 0:54:14 GMT -5
The rollers that Rob used were short, Bruce - just barely longer than their diameter, as I recall. Even that short they have many times more contact area than the tangent of a ball bearing. Since Rob works his tractors hard enough to break lots of stuff on them, but hasn't broken these since he did them two or three years ago, I would say that it has proved to be a successful mod.
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Post by stumppuller on Aug 18, 2012 12:22:31 GMT -5
OK, rollers are going on my list of next repairs to make.
Now that I've reconnected all the hydraulic lines, is there any requirement or special procedure for bleeding the system?
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Post by Rich Waugh on Aug 18, 2012 20:55:45 GMT -5
Nope Bruce, you don't have to do anything special. Since these tractors use an open-center system they're self-bleeding. Just let itrun at somewhat above an idle for a few minutes to circulate the fluid a few times and then operate all the levers, joysticks, etc so that each cylinder goes through its full range of motion and you're done. Check the fluid level again since it may have used some to fill cylinders that were emptied out somehow in breaking open the system. If you haven't made an extended breather for the sump, this is a good time to do that. too. Avoids that drooling and fluid loss when going up steep hills.
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gears
CTW Member
Posts: 3
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Post by gears on Oct 20, 2013 8:20:49 GMT -5
The rollers that Rob used were short, Bruce - just barely longer than their diameter, as I recall. Even that short they have many times more contact area than the tangent of a ball bearing. Since Rob works his tractors hard enough to break lots of stuff on them, but hasn't broken these since he did them two or three years ago, I would say that it has proved to be a successful mod. I replaced the balls in the 4 wheel drive shaft with 8mm dia. x 9mm long hardened dowels like Rob did. If you shaft is out anyway, now would be a good time for the mod. chinesetractor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=jinma&action=display&thread=616
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benqqu
CTW Member
Jinma 354 Zl-30 FEL, Backhoe, wood chipper
Posts: 8
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Post by benqqu on Oct 22, 2014 2:14:09 GMT -5
I got the dreaded oil leak from my Jinma 354. Studied this forum and the pictures etc and realised i have no chance of fixing this issue currently. No garage, no level hard surface no helpforce and probably not the tools required. So i took the tractor to a local workshop specialised on repairs on forest and agricultural machinery. They split the tractor and fixed the leak but had made the following observations:
1) The oil sump was too long and had interfered with the bellhousing and the bellhousing was therefore never properly mated, they were surprised teh gasket had held for this long 2) Some of the threads in the engine casing were damaged, basically the bolts had been pulled out, they fastened pin bolts in these places instead 3) When replacing the bolts in the remaining places with high grade bolts (10.9 metric) they claimed that the threads started to give before the specified torque for these bolts was reached. 4) The basic culprit seems to be the engine block that is casted poorly, with bad quality of the material and sand in the casting 5) They highly recommended some bracing 6) They recommended to stop driving the tractor immediately if the leak is renewed- they were worried that the tractor might split in half by itself
So next project will be to make some braces.....
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