|
Post by Rich Waugh on Jun 29, 2010 20:46:15 GMT -5
My flywheel came off with just a couple of quick raps with a block of wood. I'm not familiar with your tractor, but my flywheel weighs around forty pounds so you want to be ready when it pops loose so you don't crunch your feet.
Rich
|
|
|
Post by shotley on Jul 1, 2010 21:06:06 GMT -5
Gave the flywheel an easy pry and it came right off. Thanks for the info. I tried the bolt close to where it seemed to be leaking the worst and was able to turn it with my fingers. I put a wrench on it and completed a half turn before it started to tighten up. I am thinking about a plan to center the clutch plate closest to the engine with some small blocks of wood that I can pull out easily after putting the shaft in. Am I nuts on this or?? Any other ideas besides a splined shaft? How tight is the disc when the bolts are tightened on the clutch? Won't it move a little if the clutch is not engaged? Straighten me out on this.
|
|
|
Post by Rich Waugh on Jul 1, 2010 23:57:10 GMT -5
Once you bolt the clutchpack in place, the clutch discs are tighter than a bull's ass in fly season - they ain't gonna move.
Read about the clutch pilot tool I made and make your own. Wood works fine. No lathe? Use a drill press and some imagination. No drill press?Clamp the hand drill to a bench and fake it. It can be done. There's no real good substitute for a pilot tool when installing a clutch. It does not need to be splined, just needs to be the right diameter to fit inside the splines.
|
|
|
Post by shotley on Jul 2, 2010 7:59:54 GMT -5
I will try something from wood. I am suprised that it would be that tight with the clutch not engaged. I have labeled every bolt in plastic bags, took pictures, and taking it slow. All is going well so far. Thanks for answering all my dumb questions. It keeps the fuzz away from my brain.
|
|
roy697
CTW Advanced Member
Roy's Pond
Posts: 303
|
Post by roy697 on Jul 22, 2010 17:40:22 GMT -5
How about & update on your progress?
|
|
|
Post by shotley on Jul 22, 2010 22:27:09 GMT -5
I put the main part back together. Just have to plug in all the wiring and small stuff. Been really busy with other stuff lately. I am the caretaker of a wife with MD. I do all the house stuff and cooking now. Takes a lot of time. I put the clutch on the shaft first then put the tractor together. I then tightened the clutch bolts up. Done the job without any help. It takes more time that way. Should have it running next week I hope. Pushing it back together by yourself is a hog wrestle as a guy I know used to say. Got advice from my Son-in-law who is a pro truck mechanic. He lives 4 hrs. away and would help if I hit a wall. Will check in later. Thanks to all you guys and the advice you have posted. It was a big help to read your postings first before I got started.
|
|
roy697
CTW Advanced Member
Roy's Pond
Posts: 303
|
Post by roy697 on Jul 23, 2010 12:17:30 GMT -5
BE VERY CAREFUL.
|
|
|
Post by shotley on Jul 23, 2010 21:07:15 GMT -5
Careful is my trademark. I bought a new 3 ton jack and put large peices of firewood under the tractor to make sure it was sturdy. Lots of wood here in N. Minn. I worked on the tractor this evening and found out the brace in front of the gas tank is adjustable. I tilted the tank so had to go back and adjust. I hooked up the battery and other linkages. I plan on plugging the gauges in tomorrow and putting oil back in everything. With a little luck I will get it running tomorrow. I did not hook up the front drive line yet. I don't understant that loose ball bearing business but haven't looked it over very much yet. Any hints on making that assemble go smooth would be welcome.
|
|
|
Post by shotley on Jul 23, 2010 21:10:42 GMT -5
Looked at my last post. Can't believe I misspelled so many words!
|
|
|
Post by Rich Waugh on Jul 24, 2010 8:03:41 GMT -5
Shotley,
Use some heavy grease to hold the balls in place while you fiddle the driveline into position. You have to hold the collar back with one hand and use the other to get things lined up then it goes in. I found on mine that it turned out to be easiest to loosen the front drive shaft connection to get bit of wiggle room.
The balls just have to go in the grooves in the shaft to transfer power from the transfer case to the drive shaft. There's a thread on here where Rob replaced his little balls, (okay, his tractor's balls) with pieces of cylindrical shaft to get more contact area to decrease wear. You might look at that for guidance on the re-assembly, too.
Rich
|
|
3RRL
Administrator
Huge Kama
Posts: 2,027
|
Post by 3RRL on Jul 24, 2010 8:56:33 GMT -5
Shotley, If you are interested in that repair Rich refers to, here is the link. 4WD Repair Jinma 284Rob-
|
|
|
Post by shotley on Jul 24, 2010 9:49:01 GMT -5
I let the shaft slide out when I split the tractor. Later one ball fell out on the floor. I am confused about how much I have to remove or what stretches to let me put it back together? Who thought of this mess??
|
|
|
Post by shotley on Jul 24, 2010 18:31:27 GMT -5
Put the wiring and a few other things back together today and started it up. Backed it out of the shop and let it run for a while. No oil leaks at all! I still have to put the front drive shaft back together. After some postings and looking at it again I believe I have that under control. THANKS AGAIN TO ALL WHO PUT UP WITH A NON MECHANIC. THE JOB IS A SUCCESS! Forgot to mention that I reversed the wires on the amp meter. I forgot to write the polarity down. That will be an easy one to fix.
|
|
roy697
CTW Advanced Member
Roy's Pond
Posts: 303
|
Post by roy697 on Jul 24, 2010 20:20:10 GMT -5
Congratulations.
|
|
|
Post by shotley on Jul 26, 2010 11:43:43 GMT -5
Tried to put the front drive shaft in. I packed the bearings in grease in the assebly held the washer on and it was too tight to go in. I looks like the washer goes in first, pack the bearings in on the tractor side the put the housing over that. If I am seeing this wrong? Set me straight. Just took an early lunch and will try it in a while.
|
|