Post by 3RRL on Apr 3, 2008 0:53:46 GMT -5
Brad,
Great photos of the beast. A little wire wheel work, some oil and wd-40 and you should be good to go. If it was me, I'd work that bucket and teeth first to determine if you really need to do do replacement or not?
Here's my plan: Put a female quick connect on the backhoe return line, add a quick-connect pair in-line between the loader valve and 3ph. To use the hoe, disconnect the in-line connection and route the flow through the backhoe. Add stabilizer cylinders and run them off my 2 existing rear remotes. I'll probably add a relief valve at the same time I add the in-line quick-connect set to avoid the possibility of me busting the pump.
Rob - does that sound like it will work?
Here's my take on that. The relief valve is a great idea. Here's where I put Loretta's, coming right off the pump pressure line plus a gauge to set the relief.
It will work as you describe, but I'd consider the following.
Often when using the hoe, you might want to use the bucket to move the tractor. Also, you want to use the FEL to prop up the front end for stability. Especially with that beast! The best scenario to work a hoe is to have the front AND rear raised up if possible. Sometimes you need to re-adjust the bucket. That might get in the way if you have to switch back and forth to work the FEL or Backhoe. Plus, I think the FEL will stay where you put it when you disconnect it, but I'm not sure. Then there is always the possibility of pressure on the QD's for disconnection if you set the bucket first under pressure. Even when I use the rear remotes, I have to pull a lever to relieve pressure or it is a bear to disconnect or re-connect. In any case, every time you want to use the backhoe, and then when you want to move, you will have to unplug and replug those QD's.
Just some things to think about.
With that in mind, if you don't want to add a valve to run the backhoe, you could consider using only one of the rear remotes to run both stabilizer cylinders in parallel. They will find their equilibrium on their own as they touch the ground and the load becomes equal. So even if you're on uneven ground and one hits before the other, that one will stop until the other one hits the ground and then they should share the load and raise the hoe equally.
That way you could use the other set of rear remotes to run the hoe. I guess you could bungee it open or something like that. It would keep the FEL connected to eliminate what I wrote above.
Just another thought...
Rob-
Great photos of the beast. A little wire wheel work, some oil and wd-40 and you should be good to go. If it was me, I'd work that bucket and teeth first to determine if you really need to do do replacement or not?
Here's my plan: Put a female quick connect on the backhoe return line, add a quick-connect pair in-line between the loader valve and 3ph. To use the hoe, disconnect the in-line connection and route the flow through the backhoe. Add stabilizer cylinders and run them off my 2 existing rear remotes. I'll probably add a relief valve at the same time I add the in-line quick-connect set to avoid the possibility of me busting the pump.
Rob - does that sound like it will work?
Here's my take on that. The relief valve is a great idea. Here's where I put Loretta's, coming right off the pump pressure line plus a gauge to set the relief.
It will work as you describe, but I'd consider the following.
Often when using the hoe, you might want to use the bucket to move the tractor. Also, you want to use the FEL to prop up the front end for stability. Especially with that beast! The best scenario to work a hoe is to have the front AND rear raised up if possible. Sometimes you need to re-adjust the bucket. That might get in the way if you have to switch back and forth to work the FEL or Backhoe. Plus, I think the FEL will stay where you put it when you disconnect it, but I'm not sure. Then there is always the possibility of pressure on the QD's for disconnection if you set the bucket first under pressure. Even when I use the rear remotes, I have to pull a lever to relieve pressure or it is a bear to disconnect or re-connect. In any case, every time you want to use the backhoe, and then when you want to move, you will have to unplug and replug those QD's.
Just some things to think about.
With that in mind, if you don't want to add a valve to run the backhoe, you could consider using only one of the rear remotes to run both stabilizer cylinders in parallel. They will find their equilibrium on their own as they touch the ground and the load becomes equal. So even if you're on uneven ground and one hits before the other, that one will stop until the other one hits the ground and then they should share the load and raise the hoe equally.
That way you could use the other set of rear remotes to run the hoe. I guess you could bungee it open or something like that. It would keep the FEL connected to eliminate what I wrote above.
Just another thought...
Rob-
Next weekend they can earn the "Hydraulic Outrigger Add-on" patch. ;D Followed by the "Hydraulic Hose Routing and QD installation" badge.